Don't switch the tan and purple. To test for a short, use an ohm meter.

 

I installed a new o2 sensor to replace the old one (which was a original) and at least now it is going to closed loop. Still the one o2 sensor voltage is droping to .003 every once in a while unless I rev the engine. I'm going to exchange it for another in a few days.

I still don't understand why the left and right sensors are switched around. I'm going to pick up a used pcm in a few weeks and see if it thats the problem.

 

A cold sensor reads ~450mV. As it heats up, and starts to work, its going to show the voltage based on the A/F ratio, and could go up (running rich - normal for cold start enrichment), or dropping to 00xmV (but only if your AIR pimp is running, and you indicate yours is deleted).

Maybe I missed it, but do you have O2 harness extensions, and have you verified that they are correctly wired?

 

I do have a extension on the passenger side. I will check it out. I drove it to work today and it is still throwing a code 64. Could a vacuum leak cause these symtoms? I believe i have one though i have never found it. Also could this tie in with my timing retard issue?

 

Is it possible that all of this could be caused by a failing opti? It's about the only thing I haven't replaced yet besides the icm. As far as I know it is still the original and the car has 124k miles now. Since it is not throwing any dtc's related to the opti would a cap and rotor replacement be ok to do?

 

A bad opti could cause the original symptom of 160 BLM, but if it was that bad it would throw codes.

It wouldn't explain the dozen other symptoms you've described in the thread.

No way to know for sure until you open it up, but highly unlikely that the optical part and bearing aren't garbage at 124k.

 

I found a slightly burnt wire on the o2 extension. Changed out the extension, no change. I now have raw fuel spitting out the exhaust. I placed a order for a new opti today.

 

Installed new opti no change. Replaced the header gaskets and it looked like that was the problem. I found carbon blowout around number 7 exhaust port. Ran the car for 15 min and didn't see any sign of the false lean code. Going to town later for a test run.

 

nope that didnt help. Still throwing a dtc 64.

 

What kind of mechanical problems can cause..

one side to run lean
terrible knock retard once warmed up
no power
really rough idle
maf reading low
spark plug wires arcing
engine surging?

I know it sounds like a vac leak. I did notice today that when I floored it my hvac stopped blowing through the vents. My wrangler did that also and it was a vac leak on the hvac blower door system.

After I replace the icm (it's the only thing left in the ignition system I havn't replaced) I'm going to focus on the fuel system. I have a extra set of injectors. Maybe swap them out. I tested fuel pressure and it's good but the pump is the original so I might go ahead and replace it.

BTW I switched out the pcm. Nothing changed.

 

Hey did you ever figure out what was wrong? I'm having the same problem with code 64 and smelling gas. Engine is idling rough and sometimes stalls.