Driverside door lock problem
Driverside door lock problem
I just got a 1996 Z-28 and it had a Viper alarm system set up on it with remote start. The remote also has lock and unlock buttons on it which also arm and disarm the alarm. The locking/unlocking functions as normal on the passenger side but does nothing on the driver side. The lock buttons on either side of the inside of the car open the passenger door normally, but do nothing to the driver side as well. Since the driver side button works im assuming its not a fuse or wiring, but does anyone know what it might be? Thanks a lot.
ive got a similar question im not exactly sure what u just said...
but my driverside door lock doesnt work. its feels like its not connected to the switch it will just bounce back and forth without any pressure or spring to it... the passenger one works fine, and the door lock manual switch works fine, and also the keyless entry works fine, so i imagine its just the switch is not connected to the button... how would i fix this?
but my driverside door lock doesnt work. its feels like its not connected to the switch it will just bounce back and forth without any pressure or spring to it... the passenger one works fine, and the door lock manual switch works fine, and also the keyless entry works fine, so i imagine its just the switch is not connected to the button... how would i fix this?
Yeah it's really difficult to verbalize this problem. The lock on the drivr's side is unaffected by any switch (be it either door or the aftermarket keyless), though the passenger side works. The switch that is on the driver's door opens the passenger side, but does nothing for the driver's side. What part do I need and is it easy to install?
Based on the wiring diagram, I would say it is more likely the actuator in the door. Both L and R actuators are wired together after the LH switch, so if only one of them is not working, then it looks like trouble in the wiring or actuator.
I'm going to have to vote for the actuator (motor) as well. The wiring diagram posted shows a typical GM "reversing polarity" door lock circuit. Generally this means *both* switches need to be functional, or neither actuator will work.
Get in there with a multimeter if you have one, and check the voltages going to the driver's side actuator. You will have your answer pretty quickly. Good luck.
Get in there with a multimeter if you have one, and check the voltages going to the driver's side actuator. You will have your answer pretty quickly. Good luck.
Yeah both switches are working so I'm confident that it is the actuator. Ill have to change that when I replace the plastic piece on the door and the front speaker. Is the actuator replacement just a plug and play deal? Should it just get screwed in, plugged in, and be ready to go? Thanks a bunch.
Originally posted by gnxman87
Yeah both switches are working so I'm confident that it is the actuator. Ill have to change that when I replace the plastic piece on the door and the front speaker. Is the actuator replacement just a plug and play deal? Should it just get screwed in, plugged in, and be ready to go? Thanks a bunch.
Yeah both switches are working so I'm confident that it is the actuator. Ill have to change that when I replace the plastic piece on the door and the front speaker. Is the actuator replacement just a plug and play deal? Should it just get screwed in, plugged in, and be ready to go? Thanks a bunch.
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Victor Lamb
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Aug 26, 2017 02:52 PM



