Hey TCAL....was that for me? If so...no I haven't dynoed it yet and my trans is beefed up with a beast plate and shift kit. They said it could easily handle 500rwhp. I'm just worried more about the rear.

 

SJS,


Whats a Beast plate? If your trans is ok then I think you'll be fine. If you had a power adder then it would be a different story.
Depending on how much you race you might want to start saving but with the power you're making I think you're fine. Most likely you're around 380rwhp with the auto
It makes a big difference what gears you have? 3.23's are much stronger than 3.73's or 4.10's

 

OMAN!

 

i have an interesting question...


when they break, does that leave you SOL stranded on the side of the road? or can you drive peg legged home?

 

Usually, when they go, there can be a chance that the drivertrain may be locked, depending upon the destruction behind the cover. Most cases, a few teeth are sheared off, and you MIGHT be able to still drive slowly. Your best bet is to have it towed. Driving with a blown rear end (if possible) will circulate the fluid and metal shavings into the carrier, and, if the posi didn't blow when the rear went, then there's a chance it will go then.

Many of you don't have any faith in the 10 bolt. I've put over 100 hard launches on my car with a 3600 converter, 3.73s, and a rear girdle, in the 1.7 60' ranges, and the rear is still whisper-quiet. I don't plan on replacing it with a 12-bolt anytime soon.

 

my brother just got a 93 z a4 , his mods are in the sig below, he wants DR's but is worried about the rear end? it has 59k miles and hasnt been driver that hard. his questions are as follows, first which brand tires are best for his application , 17x9.5 zr1's, are they horrible in the rain?, are they ZR rated? what kind of tread life do they have? are they better than khumo escta supra , 275/40/17zrs? (his other option) and is there a significant traction gain? thanks

 

I know, some people act like the 10 bolt is made of glass or something. I've made over 60 hard (3500-4500rpm launches, 1.8-2.0 60' times) passes on mine on DR's with the M6 and SLP clutch and it's holding up fine. I think the biggest problem with the rear is the standard "crush" collar, cause thats what it will do over time with repeated hard launches. That increases the distance between the ring and pinion setting which is what leads to breakage. I had my 4:10's installed with the solid spacer, a rear cover with studs and a stud kit. Holding up fine so far for over two years of hard abuse on the street with DR's and at the track. Also, I know a 12bolt/9" is waaay stronger than even a "built" 10 bolt, I'm not trying to say the 10 is greatest rear but for a lot of people the 10 can get the job done just fine if its assembled correctly.

 

the t/a girdle simply keeps everything somewhat cooler, right? my 3.73 rear-end came with the t/a girdle so i was just curious...

 

Comparing a Drag Radial to a Street Tire is like Apples and Oranges They are completely different besides the fact that they are both DOT legal.

Drag Radials are not made for wet weather, they come with an LL Rating (Light Load) and have a 0 Tread wear rating, B for traction and B for Tempertaure...

Now the Kumho is a ZR Radial with a 280/AA/A Rating or so.. Can't exactly remember...but way different.

Put it this way, my $300 BFG Drag Radials hook much better than my $1200 Michelin Pilot Sports ever could. But of course when it comes to cornering Pilot Sports are the best money can buy

The only thing I will say about Kumhos are that they are heavy tires!

 

How much are these things and where can i find them. Not the 4:10 gears.

Thanks

 

thanks for the quick response! he's looking for a tire that can take the twisties too b/c it will be a daily driver. there are the khumo's on there now and they are alright for $109 a piece. so in your opinion would dr's be worth it, for a d/d? mainly highway miles. also i was lookin at your car realllllllllllllllllllllllll nice , i love the rims. i was wondering u listed that you have a Energy Suspension Transmission Mount, how has that been for ya? i have broken 2 trans mounts (rubber ones) with in 4 months of each other. is the energy mount polyurethene? thanks for all the help

 

With a Street Twin clutch your rear would have fried a LONG time ago. My 10-bolt had a solid-pinion spacer, a TA girdle, studded caps, new bearings (under 10,000 miles), for BOTH break downs. If you hook with a strong clutch and a heavy car, those tiny spider gears sheer like butter.

Been there, done that... twice in 7 months.

soft clutches or even better a torque converter is definietly a good way to survive DR's on the 10.

 

Yes ES Tranny mount is Poly. For dailty driving you should buy the Kumhos, the DRs are only expected 6-10K miles...

BTW those rims are old, I have Black ZR1s now

 

I totally agree my rear would have never survived with the ST, that's why I didnt go with a clutch that serious before upgrading to a serious rear first. I would never recommend that anyone install a street twin or any other ON/OFF type clutch and think they can run with the 10bolt. For the majority of people here with the average bolton car running a stock or mildy upgraded clutch I think the 10 bolt can be built to hold fine.

 

http://www.thunderracing.com/index.c...yid=1062#T1192