LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Drag Radials on a stock 10bolt?

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Old Jan 12, 2004 | 12:06 PM
  #16  
Javier97Z28's Avatar
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On an A4.. they take a beating, my car is a good example of that.

On a 6spd, it's a crapshoot.. I've seen people make tons of passes on a 10 bolt and DR's and I've seen people blow them up on their first launch. It's hard to say for sure.
Old Jan 12, 2004 | 03:23 PM
  #17  
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I still use the stock 10 bolt...I don't break stuff, just wear it out.

Going on my 4th diff...which I might just sell if some money comes my way and buy a 12 bolt.

But I am thinking that synthetic oil might have caused my last diff failure.
Old Jan 12, 2004 | 06:47 PM
  #18  
Steve in Seattle's Avatar
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If you have a Street Twin clutch, expect ~20 passes between posi breakage.

My 10-bolt had a girdle, studded caps, new bearings, and a solid-pinion-bearing spacer installed at 100,000 miles. The stock posi blew up on the 18th pass down the track (about 10,000 miles later).

The rearend was then rebuilt with everything above, plus 4.11:1 gears, new GM axles, and an Eaton posi. Again, it blew up after ~5 passes and ~10,000 miles.... but this time on the side of the intersate (I pulled over to put up the top and apparently found the cleanest patch of I-5 in existance... no tire spin).

Go 12-bolt or stick to radials. Drag radials are a broken spider gear just waiting to happen.
Old Jan 12, 2004 | 07:21 PM
  #19  
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I have about 40 burnouts and 3500rpm launches on nittos with a SPEC stage 4 clutch(no slipping here) and it aint broke yet. I have 3.73s and a TA gurdle with heavy duty crush sleeve. I think my posi is dieing though.
Old Jan 12, 2004 | 07:32 PM
  #20  
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I sheared a few teeth off the ring, with Nittos on the street. So it's definately a crap shoot. Never know til you try. Good luck.
Old Jan 12, 2004 | 08:21 PM
  #21  
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You guys are starting to make me worry!

Seriously though, I made about 15 passes last year on my BFG drag radials with no problem. A4 3.23 stock rear end.

Do you guys ever change your diff fluid at the recommended mileage? Or even add the GM additive?

Mines been Fine....

Yeah, watch it break on the first run this season
Old Jan 13, 2004 | 04:36 PM
  #22  
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Originally posted by ZPaul2Fresh8

Do you guys ever change your diff fluid at the recommended mileage? Or even add the GM additive?

Mines been Fine....

Yeah, watch it break on the first run this season
Yes on both.....mine was fine too till the end of the season.....a friend watching my burnout told me one tire was turning very slow....not good.
Old Jan 13, 2004 | 05:03 PM
  #23  
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:fingers crossed:

It don't matter to me, I have to give it all I got and I love to launch hard!

Already starting a Moser fund!
Old Jan 13, 2004 | 05:21 PM
  #24  
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136k on stock rear end. Last 11k miles have been on heads/cam/midwest stall and B&M shiftkit. I was running some BFG drag radials on the street and track for lots of those miles. Probably 15 passes total with the BFGs, but I also beat on it when I was on the street! Got a track day in a few months- the track prep is supposed to be top notch so we'll see. Hopefully have a beater by then!
Old Jan 13, 2004 | 05:30 PM
  #25  
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6 passes on mine

didnt pop till a couple hundred miles away on a trip just easing around campus poped when i madea sharp turn. still put over a thousand miles on it after that then it got really loud one day.
Old Jan 17, 2004 | 10:32 PM
  #26  
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ZPAUL,

You should have nothing to worry about. I just did the M6 conversion but my 10 bolt held up fine with slicks running 11's
Derrick Redding and many other are still using the 10 bolt with auto cars and going much faster.

Now for the M6. I just did the conversion and I ordered a Strange 12 bolt as soon as I finished it.
Old Jan 17, 2004 | 10:46 PM
  #27  
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Okay....now I'm worried. So you guys are saying with what I have below I should watch out. My motor has like 2500 on it and I'm gonna run her in mid Feb. I was gonna use my friend slicks, now I'm not so sure.
Old Jan 17, 2004 | 10:53 PM
  #28  
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I don't think you have anything to worry about. Do you have the stock trans? That I would worry about. A auto is very easy on the rear end. Have you had your car on the dyno yet?
When I had my auto in the car with nitrous I made 430 rwhp and ran slicks and the rear never made any more noise.
What gears do you have? I had the stock 3.23's which helped too. I broke some 4.10's
Old Jan 17, 2004 | 11:01 PM
  #29  
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I know someone that put more passes than i can count on a stock 10bolt with a spec4 clutch/et streets with 5k drops putting 560 to the wheels!
Old Jan 17, 2004 | 11:31 PM
  #30  
EDS Z28's Avatar
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You have to look at the whole picture.
First, how much power are you making?
Second, how much traction do you want?
Third, how long do you want to last?
If you take all 3 of these into account, it's either a 12-bolt or Ford 9-inch. End of story. I suggest the Moser 12-bolt. Virtually indestructable.



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