doing efi connection ls ecm swap. what timing set should i use?
doing efi connection ls ecm swap. what timing set should i use?
I said screw it and ordered the 24x conversion from mike at efi connection. I currently run a cloyes double roller, but i'll need to go back to a thinner timing set, so the crank reluctor will fit. He suggested just using the gm performance non roller from the l98 era. I think this is what he was talking about. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NAL-12371043/. Would this be a good choice. Any other sugestions?
I'd say go ahead and use it but don't plan on reving too much.....Read the last line in little blurb at he bottom
"GM Performance timing chain sets are not for use above 6,500 rpm."
Kinda defeats the purpose of being able to spin to 8K RPM...
"GM Performance timing chain sets are not for use above 6,500 rpm."
Kinda defeats the purpose of being able to spin to 8K RPM...
I am using this chain http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CLO-C-3039/
Not much slack at all. It seems to be a strong built chain set. I think it is the cloyes version of the gm extreme duty timing chain kit. Only thing is it is not a roller.
Last edited by henryz28; Nov 23, 2009 at 08:56 PM.
We have a Cloyes double row timing set on our test engine and verified the fit of the prototype billet LT1 timing cover we will soon offer.

We're working on a new test stand and will have the engine up and running with the double row timing set soon.
The new timing cover clears the double row timing chain and also provides adequate clearance in the crank seal area for our 24x reluctor that is intended for the double row timing chain.
As mentioned elsewhere, the original LT1 timing cover has too much material behind the crank seal and is a tight fit with even the 24x reluctor for single row chain. It was impossible to make a reluctor that would first clear the double row timing chain and then clear the timing cover.
These billet covers are expected to be no more than $350.00 and will have the option of water pump drive hole and no water pump drive hole. We're also looking for good 96-97 timing covers, so that would be a way to save on the price of a new billet cover if someone is willing to sell their original timing cover.
If anyone has purchased a 24x reluctor for single row timing chain, we'll gladly exchange that reluctor for the 24x reluctor for double row timing chain.
Happy Thanksgiving!
Mike
EFI Connection
We're working on a new test stand and will have the engine up and running with the double row timing set soon.
The new timing cover clears the double row timing chain and also provides adequate clearance in the crank seal area for our 24x reluctor that is intended for the double row timing chain.
As mentioned elsewhere, the original LT1 timing cover has too much material behind the crank seal and is a tight fit with even the 24x reluctor for single row chain. It was impossible to make a reluctor that would first clear the double row timing chain and then clear the timing cover.
These billet covers are expected to be no more than $350.00 and will have the option of water pump drive hole and no water pump drive hole. We're also looking for good 96-97 timing covers, so that would be a way to save on the price of a new billet cover if someone is willing to sell their original timing cover.
If anyone has purchased a 24x reluctor for single row timing chain, we'll gladly exchange that reluctor for the 24x reluctor for double row timing chain.
Happy Thanksgiving!
Mike
EFI Connection
Last edited by S10Wildside; Nov 25, 2009 at 07:07 AM.
Tune the knock sensor out.....I know not the best for a street car but why not for a race car? Maybe try the "quite" gear drive.....
Even a "quiet" gear drive has vibration 'noises' a knock sensor can pick up...it wouldn't be OK for street use. Maybe a belt drive.....
First question regarding the gear drive - why? There was an excellent article more than a year ago in Engine Masters magazine that compared a chain, a belt and a gear drive, and found none of them offered any HP advantage. The primary differentiator was the ease of advancing or retarding cam timing.
I know someone who installed the Pete Jackson "silent" drive on his LT1. It screwed up the knock sensor, so that was tuned out. But after one year of living with the incessant noise, he yanked it out and tossed it.
I know someone who installed the Pete Jackson "silent" drive on his LT1. It screwed up the knock sensor, so that was tuned out. But after one year of living with the incessant noise, he yanked it out and tossed it.
Actually the whole reason I said it, a buddy of mine and I were having a conversation on timing sets and how to make sure there is no alteration in timing, and which ones were easier to turn and more accurate. Now all of the differences we came up with were all based on extremely high hp race cars. He is also severely against me building an LT based motor. He wants me to do the LS swap, and I told him to pay for it. He said I should just make it sound bad a$$ with a gear drive and huge by large retarded cam. This coming from a guy that had a 525rwhp 3rd gen on the gun.....he has since bought a VW CC...what a wuss.
Hey Mike I already have your 24x setup and I have a double roller timing set and would really like to keep it, so how much of a discount will I get because I have a 96-97 timing cover with the wp hole welded shut. Also how soon will the billet cover be available because my new 383 is going to be finished on Dec 5th will the cover be ready by then?
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dbusch22
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Oct 31, 2016 11:09 AM



I usually shift at 62ish anyways.
