Unless you monitor knock retard, you don't know if you have "problems", meaning loss of performance. Tuning it for 87 makes sense if that's what you want to run, as long as you recognize you have given up that performance.

 

I dont want to tune it for less performance, I would run a lesser engine if I wanted to do that, but I appreciate the info. I just want to run a stock LT1 M6 with the EGR and AIR pump removed. Should I get the EGR programmed out or will leaving the EGR solenoid plugged in keep a code from being thrown? I have read that removing the AIR pump wont throw a code.

 

I felt substantial difference in the cars throttle response in Denver with 87. I would never run anything less than 91 on an LT1. Getting by with more knock retard is not the way to go. 2$ per fill up is worth peace of mind and better performance.

 

How much performance are we talking about? I've rum premium and regular with not much differance except in the pocket book. Here in San Francisco we have some of the highest prices in the nation. Let us also note that there are all kinds of levels of performance. My LT may not be as fast as it could be but then again it's way better than the 327 it replaced.

 

Get the EGR programmed out, the computer adds a couple degrees of timing when the EGR is on.

 

you won't run 87 in a iron head motor at 10:1, but you will in an aluminum headed motor running 10.5:1???

 

A reverse cooled aluminum headed engine? Absolutely. Iron heads retain much more heat then aluminum heads, plus the reverse cooling helps keep the heads cooler and more evenly cooled helping stop hot spots. If my 454 runs into detonation there is no computer to back off the timing either.