LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Dipstick won't go back in, can I cut off most of the tube that goes into block??

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Old Feb 19, 2003 | 11:37 PM
  #16  
JeffK's Avatar
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From: Flower Mound, TX USA
Originally posted by vodoo-chile
I did exactly what you are implying and ended up breaking about 6" off the end of the stick. To this day, it is still sitting in the bottom of the oil pan. This was about 1 1/2 years ago. My best suggestion is to loosen the header a bit and then manuever the dipstick into place. Either way, good luck,

Kyle
That is EXACTLY what happened to me. Get this...I went to change my oil and the end of my dipstick was on the end of the magnetic bolt I use to drain my oil. Pure luck. I will never cut another one.
Old Feb 19, 2003 | 11:58 PM
  #17  
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You can cut a LITTLE, but FIND a way to get that dipstick in mostly untouched, otherwise it will leak oil and not even want to stay in the block. Plus the dipstick itself will be allowed to flop around and probably get in a fight with the crank, this is going to leave dipstick parts in your pan, not good.

I got the dipstick tube in by myself with the exaust in place, it sure makes you have a nasty tongue and it takes awhile but I've already hacked too much off it once. I also tried the flexible dipstick for awhile, more pain than good. Unfortunately the base and flexible part seperated from each other eventually, $50 down the tubes.

Even if it takes an hour, find a way to put that thing in. I made repeated bend attempts to find a way to get it in, use as much clearance room near the AC area as needed.

Good luck
Old Feb 20, 2003 | 12:33 AM
  #18  
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From: Texorado
I sanded the end of mine down with a dremel and sander cartridge which was much easier than be hand, took a whole 5 minutes. Then put some oil on it and cranked up the heavy metal music to get pumped up. After about 10 minutes of wrestling the damn thing, I was ready to give up and as soon as I released my death grip on it the thing dropped about an inch into the hole. I eventually got it in after some more fighting but a couple of times it would just drop down in there with no effort at all.

Try sanding it with a dremel if you have one, it helped me alot, I tried it with just sanding it by hand and it wasn't going anywhere. I would try to aviod cutting anything if you can, if not I think most people hack about an inch off.
Old Feb 20, 2003 | 02:04 AM
  #19  
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I cut an inch off mine, no problems here
Old Feb 20, 2003 | 02:54 AM
  #20  
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mines been hangin out my block half way too for a while :S

anyone try a hammer !? a buddy of mine told me that just bang it in .. and she'll go in without any hassle !!!

i just want, bang bang bang
Old Feb 20, 2003 | 08:07 AM
  #21  
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From: North Canton, OH
I had problems with my Canton oil pan with not being able to get the dipstick tube in. I decided to cut the dipstick tube and all went well until the first time I went to check my oil and my dipstick was broken off, about 3" of it. I can only figure that the wind internally must have pulled it toward the rotating assembly and just ripped it apart. I immediately drained my oil and guess what was stuck to my magnetic oil pan bolt, my dipstick in many small pieces.

So now I have one dipstick that I keep in the dipstick tube just to be there and one to measure oil in the hatch.
Old Feb 20, 2003 | 08:39 AM
  #22  
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Well I think I'm gonna sand it some more, with my dremel this time. Then I'll try the freezer trick and see if I get lucky If not I'll just cut an inch or so off and repeat.

Originally posted by sideways_Into_3rd
mines been hangin out my block half way too for a while :S

anyone try a hammer !? a buddy of mine told me that just bang it in .. and she'll go in without any hassle !!!

i just want, bang bang bang
lol, I tried that, but it didn't work. The tube enters the block at an angle, and there is no way I could get the right angle on it.

John
Old Feb 20, 2003 | 09:11 AM
  #23  
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From: Bay Area, CA
Originally posted by FastZinTennessee
lol, I tried that, but it didn't work. The tube enters the block at an angle, and there is no way I could get the right angle on it.
There is always a way. I removed it probably at least a dozen times if not more, to put a bend in it so I could have clearance to get the bottom part in and still keep it away from a sticking point on the block.

If you want accurate oil reading you have to get that thing in without cutting it to death. Make some bends in there in appropriate spots, and use as much of the AC/heater box area as you need to help drop it in, if you can get a second helping hand one person on top and one under the car will help it move faster.
Old Feb 20, 2003 | 09:30 AM
  #24  
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From: Kansas
i cut 2" off mine and sanded the hell out of it, then with a little oil i just pushed it back in. what took the bulk of my time up was getting the tube bent right so it would go in the block and line up the hole for the braket at the same time. i have not had any problems after 6 months or more.

did the exact same thing to a friends car.... no problems either.

did install one without cutting the end off but the precision and patience envolved to make sure you have that tube completely straight so it will drop in the block is rediculous IMO.

seriously...why not save yourself the hassle by cutting off 2"? i guarantee it will go im much easier.
Old Feb 20, 2003 | 09:58 AM
  #25  
NOMAD's Avatar
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From: Under my Car as usual :)
Cool

I cut mine off and it broke the dipstick within 2 days. The windage tray has a hole in it for the tube and dipstick to protrude through. By cutting the tube off substantially, it allows the dipstick to contact the windage tray and put it at an angle in cohersion with the crank. The crank then slaps it enough that it breaks the end off.
I'm sure you can cut a small portion of it off with no problems, but i'm not sure what that length is

-Shannon
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