I put my SLP headers on quite some time ago, but I haven't gotten the dipstick back in place. I would really like to be able to check my oil level again The problem is with the way I have to bend the tube to get it to go in, and I still can't get it to go in all the way. I have tried sanding down the tube, starting about an inch below where it comes to the block and down. The think sticks up about three inches farther than it should.

Can I cut off the bottom of the dipstick, and just leave about two inches of tube that goes into the block?? That would make this a whole lot easier. The only thing I'm concerned with is maybe the actual dipstick might contact the crank since it doesn't have a tube keeping the bottom of it in place anymore Can anyone help me out here??

John

 

You have no dipstick? It's just left out in the open, or is it plugged?

Whatever you trim off the tube, you'll need to trim off the dipstick itself, so you know what the real level is.

 

No the tube is still in there, it just won't go back in all the way. I tried to describe it the best I can, but reading over it, it sounds kinda confusing, sorry!!

John

 

I did exactly what you are implying and ended up breaking about 6" off the end of the stick. To this day, it is still sitting in the bottom of the oil pan. This was about 1 1/2 years ago. My best suggestion is to loosen the header a bit and then manuever the dipstick into place. Either way, good luck,

Kyle

 

I know that's confusing guys, sorry, let me see if I can make it more clear.

I can't get the dipstick tube back into the block all the way. Can I remove the dipstick tube, and cut some of the tube off that goes down into the block so it will slide in?? Will I risk the actual dipstick hitting the crank if I cut the bottom of the tube off so it doesn't support the stick??

 

Yes you can cut it and no it won't hit the crank, I just did it a few weeks ago. Mine wasn't all the way back in for almost a year. Don't cut the dip stick just the bottom of the tube. I used a small pipe cutter. I also had the notch the braket so I could get the bolt back in as well.

 

If you shorten the tube, your dipstick will protrude into the crankcase farther, and your oil level reading will be affected. Whatever you trim off the tube, measure the distance from the current readings and stamp them the same distance that you cut off the tube, so you know your fluid level.

 

Sand it down a little more and make sure the tube is exactly STRAIGHT..then add some silicon to lubricate the tube..Now get a cloths hanger and straighten it out on one end and insert it through the hole the bolt would go thru..Now get a screw driver and use that to pull down on the tube..This has worked for me 5times..

Cody

 

No it won't. Your not taking anything off the top. The tube is only going to go into the block so much, there is a stop, or seat if you like that word better that will keep the tube at the very same level as it was before you cut it.

 

If you cut the tube off below the lip that stops it at the block (like I think he is wanting to do), you don't need to change anything about the dipstick. It will still read correctly. If you cut the tube above that lip, then you would need to alter the dipstick.

You do run the rist of the end of the dipstick getting caught on the windage tray and bending. It has happened to several people and even things like what vodoo-chile said.

 

I understand. I was under the impression that he would cut it substantially shorter (i.e. past the single bolt bracket affixing it to the block).

 

About a year ago when i installed my LT's I cut about 2-3inches off the end that goes in the block. Helped with goin in and has been fine since.

 

I had to cut off about 3 inches of my dipstick. since I had splayed mains put in the block it would not go in with a little re-engineering. the level will be the same as long as you get that lip to seat on the block like it was originally. I also dont think you will have a problem with the crank hitting it as it goes in next to a main bearing cap. should not affect anything at all. It wont hit anything (windage) if it didn't before you cut the tube. I cut mine with a dremel and a cutoff wheel.

 

Or you could use Steve10's old trick.
Cut the dipstick tube in half, a few inches above where it goes in. Then you only have a small piece. It makes it much easier to insert. Then fish the rest of the tube though the headers and splice them together using rubber fuel line or similar, and clamps.
Although the idea behind this is so you don't have to remove the lower portion of the tube at all. But it would also help in your situation.

 

Don't go cutting anything. A lot of people have done this and broken or bent the end of their dip stick on, presumebly, the windage tray. It's not that hard to get it in there, really. Having a buddy helps too. Heres how I got that tube in in under 5 minutes.

1. sand the hell outta the tube below the stop. All the paint needs to come off at the minimum.
2. clean the tube really well - no metal particules anywhere.
3. I have a freezer out in the garage so I froze the thing for a while to get it to contract and shrink, yes this does help believe it or not.
4. very very quickly I pulled the thing from the freezer, sprayed it with some silicone (wd 40) and pushed/wiggled it in from the top with a friend guiding and pushing also from below the car.

It went right in, easiest part of the longtube install infact. All this talk on the board had me dreading this dipstick.. I dunno why - It was easier than changing the plugs

Just don't cut it, GM probably chose to make that tube extend x inches into the block for a reason. If they could have made it an inch shorter they probably would have. Do a search, you'll see just how many people have lost the end of their dipstick after cutting the tube

my .05