I use the Opti optical sensor to drive my MoTeC M48Pro, IEX 8-channel driver and 8 LS1-style coils. With a complete solid roller valve train, the Opti RELIABLY supports well over 7,000rpm redline. A friend of mine used a similar setup, solid roller cam with Jesel shaft rockers, and a very noisy X-trim Vortech practically on top of the Opti..... and the car routinely ran to 8,000rpm with the Opti optical sensor peformaing flawlessly, producing 1,125HP and pushing a 3,900# car to 9.04 @155mph. I find it hard to believe that cams, springs, roller rockers, etc should play havoc with the Opti sensor.... maybe with the LTCC unit, but the Opti.... NO.

 

Fred,

I'm just reiterating what Bob Bailey said. If there is any inaccuracy in those statements, you'd have to talk to him about it. Though, I figure there'd be no need for this 'switch' to exist on the LTCC box if this problem were not possible.


Here's a direct quote from the few short e-mails we exchanged -- hope Bob doesn’t mind:


Again, I'm just repeating what the manufacturer told me. Though, this is the second time I’ve been ‘called’ on the manufacturers’ information regarding coil conversions. I can assure you I have no incentive to falsify the information...


Though, I see where the information I gave was slightly flawed. My memory doesnt always serve me well...

 

For some reason that logic doesnt sound right, heres why:

Regardless of how strong the springs are, there are 16 springs constantly opening and closing, so for every valve opening, there is another one closing with almost exact same timing.

The only time i can see that there would be much of a problem would be if the cam was ground on such an extreme grind that the valve opens with such a fast ramp rate that there isnt any overlap of open/close timing, which could possibly cause rapid acceleration/deceleration of the timing chain.

Just something to think about.

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Ok, now back to my question.... would removing that vent hose cause the sensor to go bad and could my problems be associated to a faulty opti sensor?

 

Again, it isnt any of my concern. You'd have to take it up with Bob, as I know very little about it. I would agree it sounds fishy, but rare oddities do occur, and Bob did not make this sound like it happens at all frequently. Either way, it's irrelevant to this thread -- as the three of us with problems are not running the LTCC, and you believe your Delteq is operating as it should. So, on with the show...

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As for your optispark, yes, if you were sucking in dirt and moisture into the housing, then anything is possible. I would never rule out the optispark for any ignition-related problem. The Delteq unit removes the high-voltage from the optispark (no voltage going thru the cap and rotor), so you shouldn't have to worry about that failing -- only the optical sensor / photo emitter in the back of the opti housing is being used.


Did you get those vacuum lines fixed up? Still misfiring?

Again, I'd check the LED on the Delteq Opti-box to test if it is receiving signal from the optispark. -Somewhat of an indirect way of 'testing the opti'. There are three things to watch for:

1) It's supposed to flash once when you put the key to 'on',
2) During cranking, it should flash repeatedly at a constant rate, and
3) While running, it should flash faster, but remain steady (with no hiccups). Higher rpm will look like a solid beam of light.

If it is flashing, then you are receiving signal from the optispark's optical sensor. Whether or not the opti is sending the signal *consistantly* is another story. As I said before, the optical sensor will usually either work or not work -- not much in between. When it doesnt work, it throws a DTC.


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If you want to check for spark at the coils, it is quick and easy. I'm not saying your coils are bad, but this would further verify that your ignition system is working properly *up to* the plug wires. If the optical sensor isn't working properly, you shouldn't have consistant spark at the coils, nor would the LED diagnostics check-out:

I'd recommend pulling the fuel injector fuses in the underhood fusebox first, so your not flooding the cylinders as you test:

You test the coils by taking off two plug wires to each coil (one coil at a time), and individually check them for spark as the engine is cranked over. If the coil is working, a spark will jump between the two terminals of the coil when you try to crank your car. It helps to have someone crank the car as you watch the coils, though you could just listen for the loud 'snap' of electricity as you sit in the driver's seat. But either way, be careful -- 40kV doesnt feel too good when you shock yourself. (dont ask)
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That's about all I can suggest at this point. Without physically scanning the car for proper operation, this is all just a shot-in-the-dark. Your problem may not even be related to ignition -- could still have a fuel or sensor-related issue. Time will tell...

I've yet to figure out the cause of my misfire, though I can see the misfire occuring with a few spark testers I plugged onto the coils. My 10-year-old optispark may be having trouble supporting the coil conversion -- uncertain thus far. Hopefully the scanmaster will point to something inconsistant...



88RXLT1 -- Did your misfiring problem occur before or after the Delteq installation? Is the shop having any luck with the problem?