http://www.mediafire.com/?f3oso84irc8l9d0

I have been having this problem. When I get the car into higher rpm's it looses power for a split second. I recorded it and it happens at #267. It feels like the injectors shut off and power is gone. It use to only happens once in a while, but now whenever the throttle gets in the 80% range, it does it.

 

I have heard a lot of the opti's on here with problems. Does anyone have any experience with this happening to them and it turned out to be the opti?

 

From reviewing you data log, your IA Temp took a hell of a dip right before that. You need to verify that your sensor is good or if you have a wiring problem from the sensor to the PCM.

 

Your engine temp also got way high during that time. I also noticed that the TPS sensor output is constant, so I would start with replacing that and then try another datalog.

 

Are we looking at the same file..... TPS voltage and % is moving normally. It stays at 0%/0.61V for a long time in the beginning, because he's coasting on closed throttle (note the 25kPa MAP and decreasing MPH), and later at 18.4%/1.22V because he's holding it steady.

What record does the coolant temp go high? Just scrolling through it, it stays within +/- 2*F of 181*.

The IAT is climbing with high throttle position, but that's from the boost (no intercooler?). Note that the MAP is above barometer. Not much boost, though.

At frame 265 the left O2 sensor starts to go lean. It drops to 115mV in frame 266, 267. Until that point in PE mode, the left and right bank O2 mV's were tracking each other very closely. At 268 you let off the throttle. What happens if you stay in it (although that might be risky if the left bank is losing fuel for some reason). The pulse width was OK on the left... but something caused it to APPEAR to go lean.

 

my bad. I used the wrong version of datamaster to view the file.

 

I have another datalog where I stayed on the throttle after it acted up for a little longer. The O2 left side showed 40,62 and 49 while the left was 684,777 and 773. Anyone have ideas why only one side showed lean? It still showed the throttle at 90+ for the first two readings and dropped to 70 in the third. This is all happening in a third of a second.

 

Post a link to the log.

Even the 684-777mV on the right bank is too low, particulary for a forced induction setup.

 

http://www.mediafire.com/?t5fbe56zufop3bg

I notice it at #3432 and #1841. I also see spark retard in that area also. Its longer than the first one I posted also. I mounted a fuel pressure gauge during the runs and noticed the fuel pressure was climbing into the mid 40's and only dropped down to 38 once the problem occured. I really appreciate you looking at these for me. The car has been driven very little this year and its no fun when I did!

 

Yes, 1841 and 3424. Same thing..... in PE mode, left and right O2's are virtually identical, probably where they need to be for the boost, its using 128 BLM's and 128 short terms. Looks like a really good tune.

And all of a sudden, left bank O2 drops below 100, the PCM notices it and starts pulling up the left bank short term to try and get it back where it belongs. Amazing how fast it responds to the problem. Both times it happens when the RPM is about 5,000-5,200, and the IAT is climbing due to the extended presence of boost. Why does the IAT skyrocket to 126* on the last pull?

Your system voltage is fairly low, at 11.8V at times.

I keep toggling back and forth between the "healthy" record and the all-of-a-sudden loss of fuel on the left side, but I can't see anything else that is changing at the same time or immediately preceeding. The RPM seems like it may be triggering something.

I wonder if there is an injector that is weak and going static?

 

I have old datalogs from three years ago. I notice the voltage was between 12.2 and 12.5 all the time. Now it is between 11.8 and 12.2. What would cause the voltage to drop over time? I'm guessing alternator, voltage regulator and maybe grounds or connections corroded. My IAT temp from three years ago is in the same temp range and higher. It goes up as the rpm's do during WOT. Maybe someone with a supercharger can let me know what readings they got.

 

I want to eliminate the injectors as my problem. How do you check them or make sure they are working correctly?

 

If there was an electrical problem, you would have DTC 18. An electrical problem would be either not having 12V at the pink wire in each injector harness connector, or the resistance of the injector not being between ~12-15ohms. Could also be loss of the ground signal from the PCM that causes the injector to open.

That leaves an injector that is leaking, or one that is going static. If it's leaking, it might show up if you pop the fuel rails up with the injectors intact, and pressure the system. If it's going static, I think about the only way to find the problem would be to swap the injectors bank-to-bank. If the problem moves to the right bank (less than 100mV at 5,000rpm) it would confirm the problem is an injector. If you do the swap one pair of injectors at a time, it will show which injector is causing the problem.

Otherwise, they would have to be professionally cleaned and flow tested, which will probably cost more than a set of new injectors.

http://www.rceng.com/Fuel-Injector-Cleaning-P43C0.aspx

 

Have had the car parked since the weather was bad and the car was not running right. Finally changed the injectors to some new Bosch 42lb. The car runs much better, but would slightly break up and the rpm's would not increase much in high rpm's. The falling flat on its face is now gone. I took the car to the parts store and they tested the alternator and said it read around 13.25 to 13.50 and was in need of replacing. My battery was low and headlights dim. Would a low charged battery cause my alternator to show low reading? Also, would this expain the breaking up at high rpm's? Feels GREAT to at least be moving forward.

 

Finally got this all figured out and solved. The car runs as good as ever!! I took the battery in to get it charged and checked. It charged and tested good. She then rechecked the test and it said it needed 13 more minutes. She then just gave me a brand new battery for no charge, since it was under 2 years old. I also put a new positive battery cable in and cleaned all grounds and connections. It appears low battery and alternator being bad was the main cause. The injectors may have caused issues, since it ran much better, but still had issues. Good to have her back. Thanks for all the help