I had this 355 built in october. I have about 5000 miles on it now. It has stock timing set in it, nothing crazy. Ever since i got it back i thought the dampner moved a little too much and when i get on it hard the belt jumps a rib and i've put 4 belts on this thing and a tensioner since i got it back. Taking it back to the shop isn't an option since i've moved. Now my first concern was that the crank was bent, cracked, or damaged but if that was the case i don't think it would have lasted this many miles. It runs super smooth. I'd like to believe the hub prongs were bent during removal or dropped and bent or the dampner itself is damaged. I assume there is a key in the end of the crank and i'm wondering if i remove the hub and dampner do i have to worry about it falling into the timing cover? Never really attempted to remove or replace one with the engine in the car so mabye this is a dumb question. It just bugs me that other than the constant belt replacement this thing is awesome.

 

Take the damper and hub to a machine shop and they'll tell you what is wrong. I doubt the crank snout is bent.

 

When you say "moves too much" do you mean there is too much end play, i.e. the crank is moving front to back? Belt throwing can simply be a matter of all the pulleys not in alignment. You can check this using a straight edge.

On the other hand if there is excessive end play in the crank you may soon have bigger problems. I hope it is something simple. Keep us informed. JMHO

 

I have a problem with wobble. I did a couple things at once and it went away

Had the RA balance rechecked.
I was a dumb a$$ and did not have the flywheel weight removed so I had that done since I have a internal balance RA.
The lower timing gear was incorrectly machined so the damper was not sitting flush.

 

Is this a stock dampner?

 

Its not end play. If you're looking at it from the fender it appears that as if the hub was not pressed straight on type of wobble. Can't see that happening being that it's a tight fit, don't really think you could press it on any other way than straight. and yea it's the stocker.

So i can pull off the assembly without worrying about anything? I kinda can't afford for my daily driver to be down anymore than a day maybe two.

 

Grab the out ring of the damper, and try and move it. That would indicate the rubber ring that holds the inner and outer metal rings together is cracked.

 

Getting a new damper tomorrow. The little holes around the outside ring have a couple of weights in them. Should i remove them from the old one and put them in the same locations on the new one? i figured i'd start by replacing the old damper because it's a bit easier and the one that's on there is 15 yrs old if it's the original.

 

Have them weight matched on a spin balancer.

 

It neutral balanced on the front anyway no weights required.

 

I would make note of where the weights are and use them, if needed. FWIW, the shop manual says to swap them to the new pulley. Not all pulleys were created equal, therefore the holes for the weights were used.

 

The new one seems to be drill balanced. Where it looks like the manufacture removed metal to balance it.

 

Many are like that. It just depends on the individual unit.

 

got it on and it looks much better. The belt tension isn't moving hardly at all and the wobble is pretty much no existant. The true test will be when i get on it so we'll see.