With our short *** keyways, what will work?

Can't use any of the standard stuff that mounts on the keyway to spin the crank while degreeing a cam.

I was going to use comp part # 4793, but that also needs the keyway to work out right.

At least I don't think we can? I haven't seen how much keyway is left over after the crank sprocket, but I don't think there's much!

What's everyone using to degree in? Heads are off the car btw.

 

You can use any stand sbc crank socket. You just need to put a key in the crank. I've used my buddy's sbc socket and it worked fine.

 

I don't remember now (altho I may go pull my hub off right now to look..)..

Is there a keyway slot on the front of the LT1 crank? If so, what key goes in tehre.. I imagine you can't replace the stock short key...

 

The crank is keyed the hub is not. The key way in the crank is a little half moon key. You just drop one in there and get you a crank socket and you'll be good to go.

 

Last question, any particular size? I looked in the summit catalog but could not find specifics. And they do come out easily right?

I should have bought a keyed 93-95 hub, but I didn't..

 

Javier, there are 2 keyways in the end of the crank, one for the crank sprocket and the other one at the outer end for the crank hub. Of course the LT1 hub doesn't use that one unless you buy a keyed hub to replace the original one. The crank turning tool will fit OK right on the end, just put in a short Woodruff key.

 

I don't know what size it is. Its the same as a stand sbc i believe. My buddy that helped me build my engine is a gen 1 sbc guy and i used all his stuff.

 

Cool, so stick any SBC woodruff key on the end and use it for the turning nut, then take it out. sweet

*edit*

this thread shows issues sticking a random SBC key in the front.. will it come out ok? I don't want it to get stuck :/

 

'eh.. SBC 3/16" woodruff key doesn't fit... not unless I beat the damn thing in.. and I dont' want it to stay in since I don't have a keyed hub..

I may have to rig something... I guess I could grind this key down.. not sure if will tho, seems like pretty hard metal

 

Put the hub back on and clasp a pair of vice grips on one of the ears. Plenty of leverage.

 

3/16" x 3/4" is the correct size. That's what I use. If it's a little tight, just work it down on the side on a piece of emery cloth, it's not heat treated or anything. Tap it in place, and if it's tight it's not going to hurt anything. Just tap it back out from the end with a drift pin. Make sure there's no burrs in the keyway on the crank.

 

Lay a mill file on a flat bench and hold the hey and run it across the file switching ends every few strokes until it fits width wise the height can be done the same way.
Bit of work but will get it done.

 

Busted out the die grinder and my vise grips, this stuff is softer than I thought.. looked tougher.. no match for air power

Almost there.. thanks guys