ok my z28 brothers just have sum quick questions to ask.

1.The thermostat hose which is the lower radiator hose i just replaced that one with a new one a couple months ago,the issue i had today was that it came off after i parked the car,i put 2 clamps on it and tighten them all the way, then i filled up the coolant bled the air out, and push the gas to rev up the hose didnt come off. but for future reference will i be ok driving on the road and freeway, and not have issues with hose popping off if there are two clamps on it.

2.ok after i fill up the coolant in the radiator and i turn both bleed screws,there were alot of air pockets in the system after the air pockets cleared, i filled up the car with more water/coolant, then i lossened the bleeder screws again and there was just straight coolant and water coming out, no air pockets. does that mean that my system is free of air, i kept checking for air but there wasnt any.

3.last but not least after i turn the car off i loosened the bleeder screw on the thermostat housing and there was hissing and air coming out am i supposed to make sure the car is on, when the air bleeding procedure is done.

thank u guys i appreciate all the help i can get

 

The sytem will pressurize itself thats why you got hissing, as far as if you bled it well enough, if the car doesnt get hot you prolly have it bled enough, and for the hose clamps you should be ok if the clamps are on good enough

 

You may have some hot spots in the system. When you shut the engine off, the hot spots can cause the coolant to increase the pressure on the system (its normally at 18psi with the engine running, if you have the correct cap). When you open the bleeder screw with the engine off, relieving the pressure will cause the coolant mixture to flash to vapor, and you'll get water/ethylene glycol vapor (not air) out of the bleeders.

The increased pressure would also account for the lower hose blowing off. You might want to check the cap, to insure it opens at 18psi, to prevent overpressuring the system.

If the cap is OK, its sort of hard to track down the cause for the hot spots. Might be time for a really good professional cooling system flush, to eliminate any deposits in the heads and block that could be contributing to the hot spots.

 

Bleeder screws are supposed to be open when you fill it. That purges more air out than anything else. You can also open them when the engine is running, cap on and thermostat open. The system is under pressure then and trapped air (maybe not all in a single session) can be purged.

 

thank u you guys i figured out my issue it sounds really stupid but the clamp wasnt on good enough after t i turn the car at the running temp the pressure was making the hose slide very slow,and the ka poosh.....coolant and money all over the ground, can i ask another question i used a lil socket wrench with a 8 size to tighten the clamp on good, before i used a flat head screw driver but with the wrench the clamp is on there very well.....

 

Never overtighten a hose clamp. They are not a typical fastener. If the clamp is too tight it can deform the worm gear and possibly cut into the hose.

 

i didnt overtighten the clamp since that hose is at the bottom of the radiator its hard to tighten the clamp with the flat head screw driver all the way. When i used the screw driver the clamp wasnt on there good enough when it was at temperature like past the middle the hose started to slide very slowly by seeing that, that meant that the clamp wasn't on there very good.

But when used the socket wrench i didnt force or over tighten the clamp i just turned it until it was hard to turn,then after i ran the engine the hose didnt move or leak at all.