I was thinking today of ways to get my car to run cooler when a thought came to me. I remember once in my stang we removed the thermostat and placed a washer in it's place. Car ran really cool to cool, took forever to warm up though. I want to run this setup for my camaro but before I do it I want to make sure it's worth it. I know itll take longer to warm up but what are some other side effects? Note I live in area with really high humidity and days that feel like it's a 110F.
Also, I just installed my Caspers fan control switch (wonderfull piece BTW) and I want to keep the high fan on all the time even during cold starts. What would the side effects be to that?

 

Drill a couple holes in a 160 stat, it will increase flow and it does slow warmup too but this way you still have some tempature REGULATION. At road speeds the fans do nothing forward motion takes over cooling and you could definetely overcool unless you played around with restrictor size.

 

Ill give it a shot.

 

don't do it!!!!
if you run too cold it will not run right or consistant for that matter.
your motor needs a CONSISTANT temp to run right so does your computer.
i had the 160deg stat and my car ran slower than it did with the 180.
don't forget your car has reverse flow cooling so your heads cool first.
also if you drill holes in your stat it is like running one with it stuck open.
It might hurt you more than help you.
If you want it to run more consistant get a larger radiator to increase compacity.

 

My car runs in the in the low to mid 200's on a average day. I did notice today after my fan switch was installed the car ran in the low 170's high 160's. I may not need to go extreme now that I can control the fans. Also was looking at these

http://www.moroso.com/catalog/categ...p?catcode=29018

 

 

It has been explained time and again about the need for the longer thermostat in the LT1. Obviously, if you put a washer in it, you don't have the intended effects of the long thermostat. There should be no reason to have to run anything cooler than a 160 thermostat and certainly no reason to have the fans on all the time. If you need to to that, you have a problem with your system.

 

I understand your point but you have to understand that some people live in wamer climates than others, much warmer. After more research I realize Im barking up the wrong tree going about things the wrong way. As of right now Im good to go.

 

It gets over 100° in the summer where I live. A 160° thermostat and the fan ON temps lowered a little keeps mine easily cooled.

 

The reverse flow cooling system in the LT1/LT4 does not respond to the same changes in the same way as conventional flow systems.
It is a different mind-set.

If you look at a LT1 thermostat, it has two valves on it instead of one like conventional flow -- one valve contols the thermostat opening temperature and one valve controls the radiator "bypass" opening.
If you eliminate the LT1 thermostat, or put a early small-block thermostat in it, you have opened the radiator "bypass" completely. This allows some coolant (100% of whatever the bypass can handle) to re-circulate through the engne without going through the radiator.
This is definitely not good for cooling.

If no one can change your mind on removing the thermostat, make a device that plugs the bypass in the coolant pump.

The purpose of the bypass is to allow coolant to re-circulate through the engine even though the thermostat is closed.
This eliminates uneven heating of the engine, heads, etc.

Tom Piper

 

Tom has a good point
I would like to add something


THERMOSTATS
Probably the most misunderstood components in the cooling system
the Thermostat has nothing to do with controlling maximum engine operating temps....especially when the rest of the cooling system in NOT efficient enough to handle the BTU'S the power plant is churning out in which case it will stay open while the temp gage continues to rise
What it does it do ? At cold start ,it blocks off the flow of the coolant out of the engine until the trapped coolant reaches the thermostat rated temp ...at witch point it opens and allows coolant to begin circulating
this aids in rabid warm up which REDUCES cylinder and piston ring wear by bring the engine up to operating temp quickly .
In short only the heat transfer efficiency of the radiator and the airflow
trough the radiator determine the engines maximum operating temp.
if you have a 180 degree thermostat and your engine is operating at 220 degrees changing to a 160 thermostat will not change your operating temps you will need more radiator or a more efficient one or more air flow or both .
If your lucky enough to have the efficiency of a good cooling system
a 180 state is a good choice .. why ?O.E.M testing has proven that the rate of cylinder bore and piston and ring wear is DOUBLE the wear rate at 160 degrees then that at 180 degrees .. also 160 doesn't get the oil in the pan hot enough to boil off condensed moisture and blow by contaminants which remain in suspension and accelerate the formulation of acidic sludge in your engine.

Drop by our site Alumitech Reproductions for more info
Don

 

Damn good info. Thanks alot everyone. I have a better understanding now.