coolant temp sensor
08-26-2007, 08:57 PM
#1
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Metro Detroit, MI
Posts: 1,326
coolant temp sensor
Ok, I had a problem where my car wouldn't run.
I adjusted my valves 100 times before I figured out that it would start and rev fine with the coolant temp sensor unplugged.
For a few minutes anyway, then it would start to feel the effects of a sensor being unplugged.
So I called the dealer and it was 25 bucks in stock, and advance had one for 11 in stock.
So I got the parts store 11 dollar gp sorenson.
Broke down and had it towed to the auto parts store. Unplugged the senor, and it started and revved, but plug it back in and I had to keep it alive with my foot and it wouldn't rev, couldn't get it past 1000 RPM.
So I pulled the advance GP and bought a Wells brand from the autozone i was at, and the car started and ran. Didn't run 100%, as it didn't with the GP, but it ran well enough to get around.
So the car still runs like a turd, but if I go out right now, unplug it, it will start right up, and i can rev it and it'll sound good. If I go out there right now with it plugged in, it'll run crappy.
2 parts store coolant temp sensors, and the car is running bad.
I knew they sold junk, but can it be that two different CTS's, from different stores, different brands, both make the car run the same? I should also mention that the stock sensor I had on there was flat out killing my car. It wouldn't run at all with it plugged in, and idle and rev (didn't drive w/out it plugged in) fine with it unplugged.
At least with the parts store sensors I can drive it.
Is there anyway to tell if I have a crap sensor? Are the parts there so crappy that it's possible to buy two and have them go bad so quick?
I think I might just try a new GM sensor.
I adjusted my valves 100 times before I figured out that it would start and rev fine with the coolant temp sensor unplugged.
For a few minutes anyway, then it would start to feel the effects of a sensor being unplugged.
So I called the dealer and it was 25 bucks in stock, and advance had one for 11 in stock.
So I got the parts store 11 dollar gp sorenson.
Broke down and had it towed to the auto parts store. Unplugged the senor, and it started and revved, but plug it back in and I had to keep it alive with my foot and it wouldn't rev, couldn't get it past 1000 RPM.
So I pulled the advance GP and bought a Wells brand from the autozone i was at, and the car started and ran. Didn't run 100%, as it didn't with the GP, but it ran well enough to get around.
So the car still runs like a turd, but if I go out right now, unplug it, it will start right up, and i can rev it and it'll sound good. If I go out there right now with it plugged in, it'll run crappy.
2 parts store coolant temp sensors, and the car is running bad.
I knew they sold junk, but can it be that two different CTS's, from different stores, different brands, both make the car run the same? I should also mention that the stock sensor I had on there was flat out killing my car. It wouldn't run at all with it plugged in, and idle and rev (didn't drive w/out it plugged in) fine with it unplugged.
At least with the parts store sensors I can drive it.
Is there anyway to tell if I have a crap sensor? Are the parts there so crappy that it's possible to buy two and have them go bad so quick?
I think I might just try a new GM sensor.
08-26-2007, 09:18 PM
#2
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Metro Detroit, MI
Posts: 1,326
I should also mention that the fans kick on when they're supposed to.
Does the fan get a reading from it's own sensor, or from the coolant temp sensor on the water pump?
Also, after I drive the car around, if I pull a plug, they all look good, they're not fuel soaked.
From trying to start it with the stock sensor, my plugs were soaked and black.
I put new plugs and wires on, on my second sensor, and the car still has a hard time idling after I stop accelerating, and it will surge, no WOT. It will pull hard, stutter, pull hard, stutter, pull hard, etc... When I give it WOT.
HELP.
Does the fan get a reading from it's own sensor, or from the coolant temp sensor on the water pump?
Also, after I drive the car around, if I pull a plug, they all look good, they're not fuel soaked.
From trying to start it with the stock sensor, my plugs were soaked and black.
I put new plugs and wires on, on my second sensor, and the car still has a hard time idling after I stop accelerating, and it will surge, no WOT. It will pull hard, stutter, pull hard, stutter, pull hard, etc... When I give it WOT.
HELP.
08-26-2007, 09:19 PM
#3
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Post Falls, Idaho
Posts: 2,728
If you replaced the one on the water pump and it ran bad i would think something else is wrong. I always but factory back if at all possible. I think there is a test for it using voltage. Just use the search above.
08-27-2007, 11:03 AM
#4
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Join Date: Nov 1998
Location: Hell was full so they sent me to NJ
Posts: 70,665
Shoebox has a test procedure for temperature sensors.
http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#ect
Simply watching the coolant temp reading with a scanner or scan software would allow you to see if the readings made any sense.
http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#ect
Simply watching the coolant temp reading with a scanner or scan software would allow you to see if the readings made any sense.
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