Forgive me for not reading most everything you've typed in this thread. All I am doing is asking questions. Not trying to argue.
Would it be too much for you to explain how the clip acts on the plunger?

Edit
Just read through this thread and haven't seen any insight regarding how a clip acts on the plunger. Do you have a link where you've explained this before?

 

The clip will become depressed into the body of the lifter as more lash is applied/more RPM causes a bit of valvetrain instability.

 

There was a link in this thread to a similar thread in Advanced Tech which should probably have been combined into this one.

Here's a quote from the Advanced Tech thread:

"As designed, the clips are to retain the plunger from popping out of the lifter when it isn't loaded. If the plunger is compressed enough in use (which many aren't), it never hits the clip in use except during valve loft. I'd try to prevent loft here, not only for the clips, but because that would allow the lifter to pump up, wouldn't it? If that held the valve open slightly you'd either have a built in rev limiter (the way the factories did in the 60's), or burn exhaust valves, and maybe break retainers. Bummer. "

Remember that GM OEM procedure is to zero lash them then "tighten valve rocker arm nut one additional turn (360 degrees)." or about .040.

The pics of failed 'R' clips I've seen are not from un-heat treated clips, but from clips that may be overly hard or have a small (manufacturing) nick in the surface that becomes a stress riser when the clip is subjected to impact loads nearly every engine rev (with almost zero lash), or during loft at high rpm. It doesn't have to be much loft (aka "float") to unload the valvetrain and let the plunger hit the clip. In this case, if the clip has a stress riser, eventually it will fail there.

There are some good pics from Jon A in a new "sticky" at the beginning of this LT1/LT4 Engine Tech forum.

Anyhoo, that's my take on "why".

Here's the link to the Advanced Tech thread one more time:

http://web.camaross.com/forums/showthread.php?t=393477

 

Sorry so late in getting back to this thread, but this is why I wonder how the lifter can be to blame. Especially with such a light preload.
From what I've seen there are people saying, "The instructions say 1/16th past zero lash..." I've never seen anything regarding this in any instructions I've ever read regarding these lifters. Everything I've seen is .004 to .006 past zero lash which from what I've been told w/ a standard pitch (32 to 34) thread on the studs is approx 1/4 turn. A few years ago I put some in LeathernecK's car and adjusted to 1/2 turn. Car did remarkably well with the mods (GTP heads/LT4 hotcam/stall/gears/bolt-ons) it had. If memory serves me it ran 114mph through the traps. Never got a good ET because it was stalled too low after the heads were installed.

 

When the motor is running, the clips should do absolutely nothing. Hypothetically speaking, if it wasn't a PITA, you could build a motor without them. Valve float, and wrong pre load is was causes them to fail. On occasion, just like everything else, a bad batch makes it's way to the customer. Maybe this is what happend, but I doubt comp, or the companies that sell comp parts would choose to ignore a large number of complaints.

 

so the morel of the story is ... Dont buy them.. Nothing thats race intended should come apart at high rpms otherwise its junk. comp R's are junk.

 

So this http://webpages.charter.net/dmcclary/compr2.jpg and this http://webpages.charter.net/dmcclary/compr.jpg was caused by faulty heat treating? Hell no. These failures were caused by the pushrod hammering on the clip. And I'd bet some other failures were also caused by this.

 

Yeah you can see in those pictures what appears to be bite marks in the clip from where it was getting pinched between the pushrod. Valve float is an overall undesireable situation. Im wondering if implimenting a rev kit could help prevent this type of failure. What do you guys think? Im in a spot right now where im about to assemble the shortblock and i need to either replace these brand new COMP R's that i have with some morels or find some way to make them work.

Steve

 

Keep the comp R's and use the correct springs w/ the correct preload.

 

So ZZ4 GTA how do you suggest that we prevent valve bounce? (hint: it's not going to happen)

Seems funny that the old manufacture of the Comp R's used a C clip to retain the plungers and they never failed.

I can get a hyd roller to go stable to 7500rpm without issues so the correct spring and PR are not the problem here, so looks like we shot that idea down?

Bret

 

Exactly Bret...How come no one has had the old ones fail???? I've had mine in my car for 4-5 yrs with no problems..I've tried many lash settings and none have caused them to break..Im sure I have the "snap ring" comp r's...

Cody

 

I have them in a $20K motor and they never have had a issue either.

Bret

 

I installed Comp Rs as part of the package the AI sent. I worked with a buddy who has done numerous head/cam installs and he pre-loaded per the instructions. I never even drove the car before the lifters collapsed (see pics). I installed the stock lifters and haven't had a problem since. Did the motor around 6 months ago, guess its a good chance I had the problematic new clip?