Oh yeah i guess i should tell you that it is a 93z28 6m with about 40000 miles on it. Ok, i changed out the wires and plugs AGAIN!!, i changed out my drivers side O2 Sensor and nothing, still runs like a$$. It is only coming up on the drivers side O2. Well i ran a scanner on it and it came out ok, but i noticed that it said my oil temp was -40?? I checked my fuel pressure and it seems to be ok, i aslo noticed when i step on it, it runs ok, not to full potintial but it runs really good. When i first drive it after starting it it runs fine for the first two min or so, but after that, it is really hard to drive it. I also noticed when cruising at 50MPH i see the shift **** shaking really bad. Any help would be greatly apreciated. Thank you so much Dan


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Could anyone please help me with this, this is the only daily driver i have right now, the wife drives the one that runs right now and the 91 is down for the moment due to a cam swap.

Thanx
Dan

 

Maybe you cold explain "runs like a$$".... rough idle, low power, misfires, ???????

Are you saying you only get a trouble code for the drivers side O2? DTC 45 is specifically for the left/drivers side. Clarify.

You don't have an oil temp sensor. Normal for the scan to show -40degF when you don't even have a sensor.

Define "OK".... what were the actual fuel pressures... at idle with vacuum line and without vacuum line, at WOT?

DTC 45 tells you the O2 sensor on the drivers side is reporting a "rich" exhaust condition, that the PCM can not compensate for using the long term fuel corrections. This MIGHT tell you that the condition only happens to the drivers side, but it might not tell you that the passenger side is close to the point where the BLM's are about to reach the minimum allowable value (108) and still not be able to fix the "rich" condition. What are the BLM's for left and right banks at idle (Cell 16), low loads (Cells 01-05) and higher loads/rpm (Cells 13-15)? That will tell you if the problem is on one side or both, and under what conditions it occurs.

Some possible causes, straight from the GM diagnostic pages:

-Fuel pressure too high
-O2 sensor wires too close to a high voltage source (e.g. -plu wires)
-EEC canister purge stuck open, canister saturated.
-TPS problem.
-MAP sensor problem
-leaking injectors... the leaked fuel consumes the O2 in the exhaust, making the sensor think it is running rich, when it isn't).
-leaking EGR valve

Checked any of these out? Do you have any of the actual scan numbers for the affected sensors?

 

1. Hestitates and bucks really hard in LOW RPM, once i step on it, yes thier is a power reduction, but it still hauls without missing. I drive around and people think i cannot drive a stick it is so bad. Sometimes thier is a rough idle, but not when i fist start it in the morning.

2. Only the drivers side O2 was the one that lit the panel up.

3. I did notice that the fuel pressure was at the correct level and i even tested the pump by troubleshooting that also. One thing that i did notice however, when i did rev the engine i noticed the needle shaking when i reved it up but i think that is normal.

ANOTHER thing the car is doing, when i am driving at the top of any gear and i let off the gas and let the car use its engine to slow the car down the RPM needle is bouncing all over the place, going haywire, I really dont thing that is normal at all, but maybe i am wrong. I also does it when it is not in gear i will rev on my wife and the needle will go to the top and bounce all over the place on its way down, what the heck is this.

Oh yeah my buddy didnt write all the stuff down for me, he is kinda lost in the head i think. LOL

Thanx
Dan

 

Ok, i now changed the opti and the car still ran the exact same. Although the OPTI was in really bad condition, it was not the problem. One of the problems with the opti was the cap and rotor. The rotor was burnt half way off and the cap was all coroded on all of the points. I did notice the bearings in the opti where really loud also. But for some odd reason my Tach needle was still bouncing. So i replaced the coil again and i also replaced the ICM and the needle stopped bouncing FINALLY one problem fixed. I did notice that the car ran a little bit better but not a hundred percent yet. I think it has to do with the plugs now. On the cylinders that the car was not firing on, i think the plugs got really fouled out because they were not firing properly. they probably have all kinds of built up carbon on theme. Does that sound right to anyone????? Well hope this post helps anyone with there journy in finding the needle bouncing problem

Thanx
Dan

 

It is your plugs and wires

 

yeah that is what i was thinking, what do you think would be a good plug to run with the Accell 300+ ignition??

 

Well im trying to figure out a code 16 problem for somebody else, Ok listen up....


First I dont care what anybody says check plugs and wires First... just did engine coolannt bypass yesterday and It was a pain. I am very cautious with evrything checked wires by my headers tick tick when i have been starting my car lately, come to find out the shop that did my tune up did not tighten the plug bam 6,000 miles and have been driving like that,

So If you gapped or put plug in lately check gap ,second touching wires, third plugs... Remember get zip ties when you are doing this so you can tie them down, e-mail me for news AChokas@aol.com or call me 972-824-0793 Angelo

 

i bought the coolent temp sensor yesterday and i am looking to put that in to see if it changes anything, it might because my fans are turning on way too late in the heating range, the car will get really close to red and then the fans will finally turn on, so that might have something to do with it. I also agree with the zip ties, you will need them because you will break the old wire looms just by getting the wires out. I have noticed if you break off the hinge to the wire loom the zip tie will fit perfectly in the spot where the hinge used to be, and i fit 8 MM in the old looms with no problem. Well later on guys and like i said any questions just email me.

Thanx
Dan