Coating the underside of the intake manifold to reduce heatsoak?
#46
I have actually tried using a giant finned heat sink, and it appeared to make no difference. Then, I got a metal "loaf pan," like you'd make a loaf of bread in, or a meat loaf. I filled it with water and put it into the freezer until it was frozen absolutely solid all the way through. I placed it on top of the hot intake manifold... waited... most of the ice melted... took the pan off, and the manifold was still hot as hell.
None of this is even remotely scientific... but in my opinion, it will take a LOT to cool down the intake manifold to the point where you see significant power gains.
None of this is even remotely scientific... but in my opinion, it will take a LOT to cool down the intake manifold to the point where you see significant power gains.
#47
Like I said, I did it twice so don't feel bad at all.
#48
I have some sheetmetal, a brake and a set of vortec heads/block i'm going to start making a baseplate out of steel for fabbing up a fiberglass intake manifold and use the heads/block for the angles. If someone can get me an accurate drawing of the LT1 heads I can cut the plate up and actually make one. Though itl'l be a while before I test it.
If you need help in the fiberglass forming techniques I have some experienct there. I'd suggest forming the runner & plenum shape from foam, applying melted wax to smooth the surface, then glassing over, and finally using solvent to remove the foam. The marine epoxie I usually use wouldn't like the heat (West Systems). What kind of resin will you use?
#49
Do you just need a drawing of the ports and bolt holes? If so, a tracing off somebody's heads or stock manifold would work.
If you need help in the fiberglass forming techniques I have some experienct there. I'd suggest forming the runner & plenum shape from foam, applying melted wax to smooth the surface, then glassing over, and finally using solvent to remove the foam. The marine epoxie I usually use wouldn't like the heat (West Systems). What kind of resin will you use?
If you need help in the fiberglass forming techniques I have some experienct there. I'd suggest forming the runner & plenum shape from foam, applying melted wax to smooth the surface, then glassing over, and finally using solvent to remove the foam. The marine epoxie I usually use wouldn't like the heat (West Systems). What kind of resin will you use?
#50
Actually I decided to use an intake manifold gasket for my template so il'l pick up a cheap one from the zone at some point. Resin they make resins that can handle the temperature I'm a little more concerned about gasoline exposure and fabing the bungs for the MAP sensor and the Injector bungs. I know how to do this with carbureted engines.
It's a lot of work. Jeb Burnett did the intake and I reported it to the larger ports and also epoxy tapered the runners to merger better into the heads. Must have 40 hours just doing that. Polishing....another 16. Jeb said he had 50 hours into it already.
#52
Actually I decided to use an intake manifold gasket for my template so il'l pick up a cheap one from the zone at some point. Resin they make resins that can handle the temperature I'm a little more concerned about gasoline exposure and fabing the bungs for the MAP sensor and the Injector bungs. I know how to do this with carbureted engines.
Using injectors as an example: Take the o-ring off an old injector. Then tape over or fill the groove to give you a smooth plug shape. You could use a dowell or better yet an aluminum rod turned to the right size. Coat with preferred mold release, mount in place in empty 'pocket' on manifold, then pack with your putty. After it cures, pull the plug out and clean up the hole edge and fill any bubbles. If using aluminum rod you can omit the mold release, and just heat the rod up enough that it will slide back out. Aluminum powder makes a great filler, especially where you need to tap threads. I also use Graphite powder, glass microspheres (lower thermal conductivity and lightweight) and various fiber fillers. Talc can work too but sometimes kicks the resin off too fast. Test a batch with filler first to make sure you like the results.
The ramair intake on my gokart was made with foam core layup, and aluminum filler for the threaded holes.
Using a gasket will probably leave your runners too big for the heads, requiring more filling later to port match.
Please make a construction thread when you do this, it will be really fun to watch/help.
#53
If I have the choice between 140F air or 130F air then I'm taking the lower temp.
Karl
#54
I agree too. But calculating the energy gain of the air "is" a "way" to show the effectiveness of a thermal coating in general for those that cannot see the "concept". It's a mental help. I understand heat transfer somewhat and the concept is plain to me.
If I have the choice between 140F air or 130F air then I'm taking the lower temp.
Karl
If I have the choice between 140F air or 130F air then I'm taking the lower temp.
Karl
#55
Read this thread from the Edelbrock web site. Look about half way down for the comments regarding coating the manifold. Interesting.
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/...r99/index.html
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/...r99/index.html
#56
Read this thread from the Edelbrock web site. Look about half way down for the comments regarding coating the manifold. Interesting.
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/...r99/index.html
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/...r99/index.html
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