Sounding good.
Be sure to check the clearance on the cam and rods when ya get it.

 

yea, it was just a mock up with stock pistons using the new crank and rods. I am sure the rod position relative to the bottom of the block will not be diffrent with the stroker pistons, but I will be sure to measure again on asembly.

thanks

 

The reason I say that is the last one with a 3.750 crank, same rods but with the Oliver rod cap screws instead of the ARP's, and a .990 base circle cam there was .070 clearance between the rods and cam on the top side of the bolt hole. Block took very little grinding and none on the pan rails.You have to check EVERY lobe.
I have never tried a standard base circle of 1.100? size in a 383. I have always been told it wouldn't clear.Soooooo I just go with Crowers recommendation and have been good to go.

 

Be sure to check your windage tray and the oil pan itself. Just because your crank and rods clear the block doesn't mean that they will clear the oil pan. (Trust me, I know). The areas I had trouble with were the front of the oil pan (rod bolt) and #7 rod bolt was hitting the oil pan where it bolts to the block. The oil pan radius is actually inside the block a little. Needed some heat, a ball peen and some precision alignment (Pounding).

 

and all this has what to do with the orig. poster's questions? I say, start your own post and argue there.

 

Well atleast we got the info out there for others. I got the help I needed. and now there is a post for anyone who searches for it.

Here is a picture for fun.



I made sure to clean the crank and rod very well when I moved it over so I would get shavings under the bearing when I bolted it back togheter.

 

I second that!!! 1racerdude you need to sit down and shut up, arguements just crap on someone's thread.

 

I can't understand why these guys are still here.

My apologies to the original poster, and the people who have made meaningful responses. I just need to lock this post until we deceide what to do about it.

 

OK.... that problem is solved.

Carry on......

 

I didn't want to grind much on my block so I milled the heads down on the bolts .050

It worked..... but I have some cheapo stuff ESP eagle 6" rods Forged crank 3.75"

Also using a small base cam....

 

yea I thought about that. It actually seems like a better idea. you can get new capscrews for cheap if you mess up, new blocks dont come as cheap.

 

What GREAT timing for this thread! A thousand "newbie" questions answered about building "The Ultimate" 383 Chevy short block. Please see......

Car Craft Magazine - August 2008 Issue - Page 22 - Article Titled ... "Everything You Ever Wanted To Know About Building A Stroker 383 Chevy".

At your favorite news stand ..... now!

You're Welcome!

 

I allways buy a junk set of bearings and preassemble the blockabout 5 times (ok maybe 3) I allways have to cover myself if I havent taken my ginko biloba in the mornings.

Check several times and mock it as many times as you need to to be sure. CLEAN THE PARTS GOOD WITH SOLVENT AND NOT GASOLINE!!!!

 

sweet, thanks for telling us about that article, someone should scan it, I cant find it online. I guess I could go buy it...