I am getting ready to clearence my block tommorow before I send it in for bore/hone and a acid bath.

I plan to use my stock pistons (so they fit in the bore) and my new rods and crank.

I set the crank in and it seem to clear everywhere but one place, at its VERY close to clearing there. a small bit of grinding and the crank will be good to go, then I need to do rods..

Can anyone tell me the common areas I have to check?.. where does it normally hit?

Just a little heads up for me..

Thanks!

EDIT: This will be with my Eagle ESP Cast/Steel 3.750" Stroke Crankshaft , and 5.7" 5140 steel SIR bushed rods with ARP bolts (SIR5700BBLW), (new cap screw design!)

 

At the oil pan rails

 

Rods and bottom of cylinder, rods and cam, and the above. If you plan on using the windage trey, it'll hit there also.

I see you are using the stock piston, which would make your motor only 377 cubic inches. Why not bore it .30 over and buy new pistons and rods while your at it?

 

he is goin to go .030, he's only doin this for the clearanceing process BEFORE boreing and honing the block.

search for some pics. that will tell you all you need to know. but yeah watch for the tops of the big end of the rod-bottom of cyl. on the inside. then watch the rod bolts-inside edge of oil pan rails. and make sure youre NEW cam clears the whole rotating assembly. which you wont know until you get the bores done and the new pistons on the cyl.s. Irods should clear fine, but def. still LOOK very closely after you assemble the eng. for the first time.

 

Here are some pics of the relief cuts on mine when it was done 9 years ago using the Eagle stroke kit. Hope this helps:

Reliefcutsinblockforcrankclearance.jpg?t=1211897218
Reliefcutscloseup.jpg?t=1211897319

 

perfect. only note Id like to add to that is they will all be a little diff, I had to take my oil pan rail cuts a little deeper for some reason? I also used eagle but I had Hbeam rods, not the Ibeam rods. also dont forget to make sure the oil pan and windage tray get clearanced too (with a hammer) before you bolt it all up and try to turn it over.

 

I went with the Hbeams as well, however I didn't have to worry about the windage problem as my Canton race pan had a built in windage w/crank scraper.

 

Just be careful at the bottom of the cyls.

You WILL hit water.

 

def CAN hit water. ultimatly why I decided to go 383 instead of 396. so yeah, only do whats needed and thats IT.

 

Yup, that's why I went 383 as well as going the 396 route' really weakens the water jackets/channels and from what I've heard it can seriously shorten the life of the motor.

 

WOW. GREAT info everyone.. Thats awsome. Make a post before I go to bed not really expecting much, wake up with 10 great replies. this forum is great and you all are so helpful.

Ok, so looks prety straight forward, just TaKe My TiMe!.. I believe I read that anywhere it gets close you should clearence a minimum of .060" and try not to go more than .0700". Are those acurate numbers and a good rule of thumb to work with?

Should the crank need any clearencing?.. mine does touch a little right here:







other than that it looks clear everywhere else.

I habe I beam rods so hopefully I wont have to eat into it to bad..


Yea I am using stock pistons just for clearencing. well mainly just to get the bulk of it done. I dont want to do any when after its had a acid bath, but I might have to, so the less i have to do then the better.

I will be sure the check it over close a few times when im done

Thanks everyone!

 

Your cam will clear.No problems with the 5.7 I beams

 

oh cool. Thats great. only less thing I have to worry about.

I kinda figured I would be ok since this kit says I can use a standard base circle cam, so there must be room up there.

 

I know you're only doing a 383 stroker and not a 396 but have you considered doing a "short" block fill before doing your clearencing?

 

im not sure exactly what you mean?

short block fill?