A "short" block fill entails filling your engine block up to the bottom of the freeze plug openings with either Roc Block, Hard Bloc, or Embecco 885 metallic grout, to both 1) increase the stiffness of the lower block ..... and, 2) prevent you from hitting an "unfilled" water jacket opening during clearencing. If you accidentially "clearence" into a ""filled" water jacket ..... the block can usually be saved with Devcon adhesive over the Hard Bloc/Embecco. Got it?

 

its somehting that stayes in there?.. wont that make the bottom end hot?..

I dont think I will have to cut real deep with this setup. I hope not.. but I dont think I have enuff HP to worry about the bottom end being stiff. how much is somehting like that>?

Thanks

 

its an epoxy fill that will partially fill the lower part of the block with an epoxy so that you dont have to worry about hitting the water jacket in the block, and it strengthens the block/lower end rotating assembly too. but it has to be done before the bore/hone, and would also requre line honeing the crank mains too cause it can cause slight block shifting when it cures. typically its only done for people who are either building a race engine, or if your really worried about hiting the water jacket. Id say its not nec. for your build, long as you do what you say. take your time and only cut what needs to be cut.

you got it right, at min. of .060" clearance everywhere. that will turn into much less once the eng. is at full operating temp.

 

damn, IM way too slow. lol

 

sounds good.

Yea, thanks for the info and recomendation, but I dont think I need it, I really dont want to line bore.. more $$$. this is adding up quick. lol

 

welcome to hot rodding

 

lol..hellll YEA.. I CANT WAIT..

 

Block filler is a great idea.
Just fill it to the bottom of the freeze plugs. That way if it is thin in spots it will not be through and support the thin spot.
Make sure ya have the main caps in place and torqued. The heads too if ya got some fixed to pour the epox. My shop uses a drilled torque plate but ya can fill it through the side holes.
Do one side at a time and let stand 24hrs then roll it over on the stand and do the other side.Position it to make the fill level with the bottom edge of the side plug holes.
The heat generated by the epox MAY distort some bores.Useally ya hard block BEFORE ya do the machine work. It will have to be checked everywhere after the epox sets up.
This won't have an effect on cooling on the street.
Ya will have to drill the block drains after or ya will fill the engine with water if ya pull the heads or intake.


The bolt's hit. If ya have the capscrew stroker rods ya can get Oliver cap screws and your grinding will be minimal.The heads are shorter than ARP's rod bolts. Ya shouldn't have to touch the pan rails and minimal on the bores and with a small base circle cam(.950-.990) ya are good to go.

 

I will be running a standard base circle cam, but I was told that with this setup I can run a standard and not worry about it. I believe I have the new design rod bolts so I wont have to grind alot, you tell me:



I am going to hold off on the block filler for now. I dont think I have enuff power to worry about it. Plus then I will need to get it line bored/honed and I dont want to do that. But if I did decided to do it, I would also get ARP main studs.

 

Ya will have to check cam clearance but I think ya will need a small base circle.
If the cap screws are ARP then the Oliver bolts have a shorter head that gives more clearance and LESS grinding.
The block fill is not about power,it's about strength at the grind area to prevent water leaks and cracks even after a few miles.

 

the place that I bought this kit said I dont need to use a small base circle cam. I hope I dont. Less grinding is good, the less I have to grind the better.


I started, I got the crank in and all clearenced (no rods yet), there was only one place the crank hit.. I will throw the rods and old pistons in monday and finish.

 

Ya will need .050-.060 clearance EVERYWHERE.
CHECK ALL cyls carefully.
The old pistons will need at least 2 rings per cyl. to do it right if the clearance is close.
Make sure the cam is installed as it is to be run.
Personally I would like a .990 base circle cam in it.

 

ok. It it all clearenced. Im looking at .060 everywhere.. didnt have to cut deep at all. actualy, one of the banks didnt even hit when I drope it in, and the other just barely hit, a TINY but of grind and it rotated freely , little more and there was .060 all arround.

So, I am all set the block, going to send it off to my machine shop tommorow.

Thanks for all the help.

 

Crank,rods,cam,everything?

 

crank and rods. using the stock pistons

I dont have the cam yet, the one I will get is standard base circle, that was one of the selling point in the kit due to the 5.7" I beams. I can run a standard base circle. I will still check it, when I put it together, but I am prety sure I will be good.