does the crank pulley need to come off? i have not tried to take it off yet but looking by eye i cannot tell. so is it possible to get around it or does the pully have to come off, any help would be great.

 

The pulley must come off. The hub can stay.

 

ok well i put a pos pulley puller on the balencer on the pulley and it yanked the 3 bolts right out. im not sure what to do so does anyone have any advice or an idea?

 

If it pulled the bolts out then they aren't the right size. Most pulley pullers don't come with large enough bolts for our hub. The head bolts work perfectly if you know someone with a used set. I think they're the same as the Gen I SBC head bolts, too.

If you're just trying to pull the balancer and not the hub off, you should be able to use a 3-jaw puller if you have a stock setup.

 

Those 3 bolts just take a ratchet and a socket to take them out, then you can use a rubber mallet or something and hammer the pulley off. If you use a hammer make sure to hit it on the left, right, top, and bottom or else it will get stuck if you heep hitting it in the same side. If you sheared the bolts then you have to remove them and replace them.

 

Yes the pulley must come off. To make the process easier, go out and buy a Haynes manual. It tells how you can use a standard puller. You have to use some additional bolts to get it to work. I did this job about 1 year ago following the Haynes manual. Took about 6 hours or so.

 

alright thanks for the input im gonna check i think a few of my friends have other style pullers hopefully itll come out that way. if not ill try to get my hands on a haynes manual.

 

if you know anyone that works on chrystlers there is a special puller that has the hardened center rod, the 3 jaws work perfect on lt1 hub.

I did this job earlier today in an hour, removed everything replaced opti...and started it.....with WP etc still off, sadly I ran into another issue after getting it started.

You can also just leave the hub on and yank the balancer off with a 3 leg puller, Its alot easier if you just take the radiator out of the car also......you can work alot faster

 

You do not need a puller with bolts to remove the damper/pulley from the hub. If you thread bolts into the three holes in the pulley, you are in effect trying to pull the hub off the crank. You do not need to remove the hub, as has already been mentioned.

After you take the three bolts out that hold the damper/pulley to the hub, the only thing that is holding the damper/pulley on the hub is rust. It was a loose fit when it left the factory 14 years ago.

Shoebox has a photo showing the way to use a 3-jaw puller to remove the pulley.