So I am not getting power to the pump connector unless I supply power to the prime pump connector. So if I am not getting power to that connector and I have tried a few different brand new relays... Where am I loosing power or whats going on

 

How do i test the light when i pop on the key the security light turns on with all the rest of the dash lights...

 

But even if I supply power and get power to the plug the pump still doesnt turn on

 

any ideas? I cant even move it. I am starting to pull the carpet back.. maybe I have a bad ground somewhere?

 

All the dash lights come on when you turn the key to "on", and that is your test to see if they are working. All the lights should go off after a few seconds.

As far as the "SECURITY" light, it will stay on if you try and start the engine and there is a problem with the key. A key with a missing or damaged resistor, the "SECURITY" light will flash.

As usual, Shoebox has the required info:

http://shbox.com/1/pass_key.html

 

It's common for the contacts in the switch to wear and the pellet in the key to wear. Between them both, the probability of them not touching gets greater and greater.

So as stated, you check for the "security" light on when you first power up. If it goes off and stays off after that, the "security" shut down is not the issue.

With that being said, you now need to check for the presence of power at the fuel pump relay socket on both the coil and the contact side of the relay. I could not find the diagram on Shoes site for the fuel pump. Maybe someone can find it and post it if I missed it. I will shortly get you a diagram of the pins to check on the socket.



Use the upper 5 pin socket diagram.

 

When you pull the FP relay the socket will look like the diagram above. Pin 30 will have 12 volts when the key is on. If not check I/P 15amp fuse #5.

When the fuel pump is turned on by the PCM, pin 86 will have 12 volts. Remember when you turn the key to the on position but don't start the engine, the fuel pump (in this case the relay) will only be turned on for about 3 seconds. Then it is turned off. So pin 86 will only have 12 volts for about 3 seconds.

If 86 has voltage for 3 seconds after key on AND pin 30 has voltage anytime the key is on, there should be voltage to the pump. The output to the pump is on pin 87 which is the grey wire running to the connector by the back wheel. Remember the relay runs a different path then the FP prime connector. You already know the FP prime connector works. So your critical test will be checking voltage to pin 86.

This will show the output of the PCM to turn on the relay.

 

Is this what you were looking for, Speedy?

http://shbox.com/1/1995_pcm3.jpg

 

today my car primed a few times and would start and run at below 40. I pulled up the carpet in the hatch above the tank and a few times a heard faint sound of pump or something moving around down there but not the old pump sound I know

 

I haven't been able to find anything I was looking for on your site. Thanks.

 

So did it run with the key in the ignition only or did you have to jump the FP prime connector to get it to run?

 

I have no power at 86 but I do have constant power at 30. What is my next step

 

It was the fuel pump. I replaced the pump and now it runs great! I tested the old pump and it was shot. Thanks everyone for their help... On to the next repair....

 

Lol, man, sounds like about where my car is slowly headed... Glad you got it fixed!! My turn....

 

Got through the trunk, that way if you ever need to service it again its easy. if you add nitrous or motor work you may need to upgrade as well.

PS- this car runs better and faster then I ever remember it! Old pump has probubly been dieing for a while.