Car starts then sputters and shuts off
Should have done that back when Fred told you
Try testing it by running the pump off the "fuel pump prime connector" near the PCM. Apply 12V to the connector. That bypasses the PCM/fuel pump interlocks, and the fuel pump relay.
http://shbox.com/1/fuel_pump_prime.jpg
http://shbox.com/1/fuel_pump_prime.jpg
Last edited by Guest47904; May 31, 2011 at 04:57 AM.
Re: Car starts then sputters and shuts off
Do you mean where is the fuel pump relay?
http://shbox.com/1/fuel_pump_relay.jpg
... and where is the fuel pump harness connector?
http://shbox.com/1/fuel_pump_wiring.jpg
All of this info is on Shoebox's site. No need to use links on Facebook that not everyone can even access.
http://shbox.com/1/fuel_pump_relay.jpg
... and where is the fuel pump harness connector?
http://shbox.com/1/fuel_pump_wiring.jpg
All of this info is on Shoebox's site. No need to use links on Facebook that not everyone can even access.
Re: Car starts then sputters and shuts off
I need help guys please. I bypassed the ecu and I got it to start again and drove it and it would run like 44psi at times and then when i gave it gas it would drop and at wot it would drop below 20. It and after getting multiple 0 tests and a few tests at 10 it finally tested 36 and started and I drove home. When i got home it stalled and I tested it 3 times with nothing but zeros bypassed and on ecu. I tried one last time on ecu and I got 41 and started it and with the vaccum closed i measured 43.5 and 44 and when i hook vacuum back up it dropped below 40 at idle and ran a little rough.
Now I cannot get anything for a prime
No matter whether the key is on or not the gauge shows 6 and i keep purging the gauge and it will 0 out and go right back to 6 psi
Now I cannot get anything for a prime
No matter whether the key is on or not the gauge shows 6 and i keep purging the gauge and it will 0 out and go right back to 6 psi
Re: Car starts then sputters and shuts off
Assuming you are using and reading the pressure gauge correctly, it sounds like the pump is going, going, gone.....
Can I cay with absolute, 100% certainty that is the problem...... no. But if you've checked for the correct voltage at the pump harness connector and you'e got it, you've bypassed everything except the wire to the pump, and you still have intermittent fuel pressure, the problem is in the tank.
Be interesting to see what you have when you pull the pump/support assembly. Could be loose wiring in the tank. But I'll lay good odds on it being the pump.
You do have a full tank for fuel, right?
Can I cay with absolute, 100% certainty that is the problem...... no. But if you've checked for the correct voltage at the pump harness connector and you'e got it, you've bypassed everything except the wire to the pump, and you still have intermittent fuel pressure, the problem is in the tank.
Be interesting to see what you have when you pull the pump/support assembly. Could be loose wiring in the tank. But I'll lay good odds on it being the pump.
You do have a full tank for fuel, right?
Re: Car starts then sputters and shuts off
I hooked up a line from the positive terminal to the prime pump connector hooked up pressure gauge.
I climbed under the car and I turned the meter on 200 and put the positive in each three of the wires labeled in shoeboxs diagram and tried mulitple grounds. even with the key on I got nothing. I do however want to try again because I dont feel I got a Great ground any of the times.
Am i doing the test correctly? What should the reading be? What does this mean?
I climbed under the car and I turned the meter on 200 and put the positive in each three of the wires labeled in shoeboxs diagram and tried mulitple grounds. even with the key on I got nothing. I do however want to try again because I dont feel I got a Great ground any of the times.
Am i doing the test correctly? What should the reading be? What does this mean?
Re: Car starts then sputters and shuts off
Put the meter on "200" whats???
You're trying to measure ~13 volts at the fuel pump connector. Set the meter to the lowest DC Volts range that is greater than 13V.
You want to measure the voltage between the gray wire and the black wire. The black wire IS the pump ground. That is the only "ground" you need to be concerned with. Ignore the purple wire. That is the fuel level gauge signal, and that is not your problem.
Shake the wiring harness while you are testing for voltage. See if you can track down a loose connection.
You're trying to measure ~13 volts at the fuel pump connector. Set the meter to the lowest DC Volts range that is greater than 13V.
You want to measure the voltage between the gray wire and the black wire. The black wire IS the pump ground. That is the only "ground" you need to be concerned with. Ignore the purple wire. That is the fuel level gauge signal, and that is not your problem.
Shake the wiring harness while you are testing for voltage. See if you can track down a loose connection.
So close yet so far......
Bet he set the meter to ohms. Maybe he should just use a test light. And I don't understand what he means by jumping the ECU? And why is he climbing under the car. All he has to do is take the left rear wheel off. The connector is right there.
Re: Car starts then sputters and shuts off
Try testing it by running the pump off the "fuel pump prime connector" near the PCM. Apply 12V to the connector. That bypasses the PCM/fuel pump interlocks, and the fuel pump relay.
http://shbox.com/1/fuel_pump_prime.jpg
http://shbox.com/1/fuel_pump_prime.jpg
Also, I was testing it wrong, I did not use the meter correct it was my first attempt at using one I will try again later.
I could definatly use a test light but I think Injuneer wanted to make sure I was getting enough output.
No need to take the wheel off. Just jack the car up a tad and slide under the plug is easy to access that way for me.
http://shbox.com/1/fuel_pump_wiring.jpg
Re: Car starts then sputters and shuts off
Do you get a steady or blinking "security" light on the instrument panel while you're having these problems?
If I remember correctly, the VATs shuts down the fuel pump enable signal from the TDM to the PCM if it has problems reading the pellet in the key.
Best to just bypass the system with the correct value resistor.
If I remember correctly, the VATs shuts down the fuel pump enable signal from the TDM to the PCM if it has problems reading the pellet in the key.
Best to just bypass the system with the correct value resistor.
Last edited by Guest47904; May 31, 2011 at 02:56 PM.


