Can someone detail the removal of the EGR system to me?
Can someone detail the removal of the EGR system to me?
I removed that pipe that was coming from the passenger side exhaust manifold to the back of the intake doing my LTs. Is that part of the EGR system? If so, whats the rest of it made up of, because I'm sure i'll wanna remove it. Also, does the removal of the EGR produce any power gains? Thanks
There are two devices on the rear of the intake manifold, one is an electronic control module, the other is some sort of vacuume device. You'll need some block off plates for the intake manifold and some vacuume caps to cap any open lines you have on the drivers side of the intake manifold.
I would also suggest having your system programmed out of your ECU to prevent the SES light from coming on all the time.
I don't see any advantage to this other than less carbon deposits on the walls of your intake manifold and cylinder heads.
Some people see lower temperatures, but that is with a stock setup... I have all the emmissions equipment installed, headers, cam, heads, etc. etc. and never see above 170 degrees ever.
I would also suggest having your system programmed out of your ECU to prevent the SES light from coming on all the time.
I don't see any advantage to this other than less carbon deposits on the walls of your intake manifold and cylinder heads.
Some people see lower temperatures, but that is with a stock setup... I have all the emmissions equipment installed, headers, cam, heads, etc. etc. and never see above 170 degrees ever.
You need absolutely nothing to remove the EGR, unless your valve is leaking, and a screw or vacuum cap to block off vacuum from intake manifold, oh and if you have stock manifolds, you'll need to block that portion of the exhaust manifold off.. Now that you have that pipe off, block the exhaust manifold, unplug the EGR solenoid (little black thing on driver side, rear of intake. Has a teal plug), and unplug the vacuum line on driver's side of intake manifold running towards the rear, and cap it. Leave the valve in place....as long as it's not leaking, it will remain shut, and it doesn't matter if the other hole is opened, because the valve controls whether air gets in there or not.
I bet if you checked this link you'd have 302 topics worth of answers. 
http://web.camaross.com/forums/searc...der=descending

http://web.camaross.com/forums/searc...der=descending
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