LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Cam Selection

Old May 21, 2008 | 12:50 AM
  #1  
ENRKyle20's Avatar
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Cam Selection

Comp Cams recomends 07-467-8 (230/236), but he didnt really ask much about the car. he was in a hurry.. pfff

I feel like that a little weak. WHat do you think

95 Camaro Z28
383 Stroker
Stock Heads (Soon To Be Porter)
Stock Intake Manifold (Soon to be ported or replaced)
SLP INtake
Pacesetter Headers
No cat
Flowmaster Cat Back 80 series
LT4 Hydrolic Roller lifters
LT4 1.6 Roller Rockers
NO EMISSIONS TEST
No EGR
MSD Vented Opti
MSD Coil


I looked at the description of this cam and it says strong idle?.. I want a bumpy idle. also, do I NEED to replace the valve springs with the cam?
Old May 21, 2008 | 02:25 AM
  #2  
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Here's my suggestions:

Since you're running a 383, Get an AI package like I did. They're the only people I swear by as far as Heads and Cams go. I had them do my intake porting as well. Excellent quality, and excellent people to do business with period. You will not be dissapointed. You're going to want some bad mammer jammers for heads, then discuss with them about your needs for a cam (driving habits, etc.). They won't steer you wrong...

Good Cam Info on stock/mildly worked over heads if you decide to take the road most people do (for mild setups, budget constraints etc.):

http://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=836200

Last edited by Kaj; May 21, 2008 at 02:31 AM.
Old May 21, 2008 | 06:11 AM
  #3  
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Any cam worth swapping to will need new springs (assuming you are running the stockers). There are a lot of cam threads (too many). You might want to read some of them. There is not enough info in your post to make specific recommendations. The kind of info needed can be found here: http://www.kennedysdynotune.com/Cust...nformation.htm That's the kind of info you need to post to get a worthwhile answer to your question.

Rich
Old May 21, 2008 | 09:31 AM
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I've just put that cam in my 396. I can let you know this evening how it sounds. I didn't want to go real wild because 95% of the time is cruising and the other 5% is playing.


I've got that cam, LS7 lifters, TPIS 58mm throttle body, 36# injectors, pro magnum RR's, LE2 heads, Mahle -16cc pistons, Dragonslayer crank, and long tube headers. I used the Cloyes roller timing chain and did away with the water pump.


Old May 21, 2008 | 10:28 AM
  #5  
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wow, 1963 nice.. do tell me how that sounds.

as for springs. im not running stock. im running the springs from the LT4 hot cam kit. are those good enuff to keep on? EDIT: found my answer: "The LT4 valve springs located in the LT4 "hot cam" kit should NOT be considered to be run with any cam due to the fact they are known to be very weak and only have a max lift rating of .540 which is not high enough for most off the-shelf camshafts".. so I guess i will be purchasing valve springs and keepers and shims and seals..





Type of cam (check)

Solid flat tappet:___ Solid roller:___

Hydraulic flat tappet: ___ Hydraulic roller: _X_

Primary Usage (check)



Street performance: ___ Street/strip: _X_

Drag race: ___ Oval track: ___

Marine endurance: ___ Marine drag: ___

Pulling: ___ Road race: ___

Vehicle Information:

Weight:3500 Transmission: 6 Speed Manual



Rear end ratio: 3.42 Max RPM: 6850



Fuel: Gasoline 93 Octaine Ignition: MSD OptiSpark MSD Coil

Nitrous: Yes Nitrous HP: 100-150

Roots blower: No Boost: n/a

Centrifugal SC: N Boost: n/a

Turbo: No Boost: n/a

Rocker ratio (OHV engines): 1.6RR Compression ratio: 10.6:1

Intake valve diameter: 1.940 Exhaust valve diameter: 1.50

Cylinder head used: Stock Ported: Yes (Will Be Soon)

Carbureted: N0 Carburetor brand/CFM: n/a

Fuel injected: Yes Throttle body size: 58MM (soon)

Intake manifold: Stock LT1 Ported

Last edited by ENRKyle20; May 21, 2008 at 10:50 AM.
Old May 21, 2008 | 11:48 AM
  #6  
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Originally Posted by 1963SS
I've just put that cam in my 396. I can let you know this evening how it sounds. I didn't want to go real wild because 95% of the time is cruising and the other 5% is playing.


I've got that cam, LS7 lifters, TPIS 58mm throttle body, 36# injectors, pro magnum RR's, LE2 heads, Mahle -16cc pistons, Dragonslayer crank, and long tube headers. I used the Cloyes roller timing chain and did away with the water pump.


Sounds like a nice set-up...just curious as to why you chose -16cc pistons though? Is FI in your future?
Old May 21, 2008 | 01:08 PM
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You will most likely also need new rockers and pushrods if you want a cam that aggressive. The 383 can handle a larger cam, but your compression is almost stock, so a large cam would drop your DCR too low I would think. I can't remember if the longer stroke makes up for that or not.

If all you want is a lopey idle, then get a GM847 or CC306. If you want better performance, then read up on DCR, overlap and valve timing events to see what is best for you. Chances are you will have to wait until your heads are ported to pick out a cam. They will affect your SCR and DCR. You should try to get it around 11:1 I would think, especially if you want to use nitrous.
Old May 21, 2008 | 01:25 PM
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The added info is helpful. I would look for ~225 degrees @ 50 on the intake with ~6-10 degrees more on the exhaust with a 112 degree LSA. Look for ~.550-.575" lift. This is pretty close to the GM 847 but a bit smaller. If your CR were higher you could use a little biggger cam. It will need tuning to run right and (obviously) the correct springs.

Rich
Old May 21, 2008 | 01:48 PM
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CR... hmm. I should know this
Old May 21, 2008 | 01:50 PM
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Compression Ratio
SCR = Static Compression Ratio
DCR = Dynamic Compression Ratio
Old May 21, 2008 | 09:50 PM
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yea. I was playing with CamQuest and more compression really added alot of power.

I will definatly be shooting for more compression when I get new heads

How much is to much compression. I know when I start knocking bad its so much, but when it that?
Old May 21, 2008 | 09:57 PM
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keep DCR below 9:1 and you should be okay.
Old May 21, 2008 | 10:50 PM
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Thanks for the comments. Got it started today and after pulling the pan twice to correct rod bolt clanging on tin it ran like a dream. The idle is perfect for me. It has plenty of lope, chop whatever it's called nowdays.
Sounds like a nice set-up...just curious as to why you chose -16cc pistons though?
I have no plans for FI. I have 53cc heads and a .028 head gasket off an Impala. The block was decked and the pistons are .010 in the hole. That is about 11.18/1 compression ratio. That's all I wanted. It revs a lot faster and feel like a turbine at speed.
Old May 22, 2008 | 07:50 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by ENRKyle20
yea. I was playing with CamQuest and more compression really added alot of power.

I will definatly be shooting for more compression when I get new heads

How much is to much compression. I know when I start knocking bad its so much, but when it that?
Most people here will tell you not to put any faith into what camquest tells you will and won't make horsepower. It's a "best guess" theoretical model that is meant to sell cams.

IMO, the cam is one of the last things you select when building a motor. It can be controlled more precisely and you have more variables to play with. If your block is already finished, then you can only use the heads and head gaskets to change your compression, both of which have their limitations from other factors. However, once you know your compression, you can calculate your DCR with different cams.
Old May 22, 2008 | 11:51 AM
  #15  
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I have already purchased the crank, rods, pistons, rings, and bearings. The pistons I chose were Federal-Mogul Speed-Pro that will yeild these compression ratios: 10.6:1 with 58 cc head, 9.7:1 compression with 64cc head or 9:1 with a 72 cc head. Dome Shape; .110 Dish; 2 valve reliefs, Compression dist 1.425 , Deck Clearance .025, Skirt Clearance .0010.

I will be using stock heads for atleast 3 months then I will move on to trickflow or LE2 heads. at that time I will get the intake manifold ported to accept a 58MM throttle body.
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