Hey guys i'm installing a new cam in my 95 LT1 and i'd like to know all the tricks and tips to install it. basically I was wanting a step by step procedure so i can do it right. I don't have a degree wheel but if its absolutely neccessary(sp?) i'll buy one. Thanks in advance

 

Dude I hope you at least have a manual. Anyway, the main tips I would say is:

1. Be very careful and go real slowly when removing the old cam and putting in the new one so you dont knick the bearings. Use 6" bolts (3). i think they're 1/8th size.

2. I would dipple or groove the block rails where the intact manifold touches (front and back). it gives the RTV something to hold on to and prevents the infamous intake leak.

3. You don't need a degree wheel. Just match up dot to dot.

4. Keep area very clean and cover the engine so dirt doesn't get in when working on the motor.

5. Lube the hell out of the cam with cam lube. Do not be tight on it.

6. After you start it....run it for about 10 minutes and change the oil and filter to get all the cam lube and dirt out.

Well thats about all i think of on the fly. Good luck.

wayne

 

http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech1.html

There ya go.

 

I dont know if this trick is on shoe box's site, but dont install the waterpump driveshaft seal until after the tchain cover is back on. you have to take the driveshaft, and sand down the whole thing to make it smooth, then take one end and taper it off. that way, the new seal will slip on the tapered end of the driveshaft, isntall the driveshaft on the splines. then slide the seal back onto the gear shaft thats stickingout of the timing chain cover and tap it on w/a deep socket thats about the same diameter as the steel portion of the seal is. also, the new waterpump shaft seal and opti seal are not supposed to be lubed before or after installing. they need to be dry when installing the parts into them. another thing to know/remember is when your reinstalling the opti, there is ony one position that the dowel pin will fit into on the back of the opti. make sure it is lined up w/the dowel pin. do not force theopti on. it should slip right on and be FLUSH w/the mounting bosses the bolts go into. one last thing, when you are dissassembling the eng. to pull the cam, do NOT take off the timing chain cover until the oil pan is droped down some. if you take all the bolts out of the oil pan except the back two (loosen those as much as you can w/o removing them) the front of the pan will drop about an inch. thats all you need. the oil pan seal is one piece rubber and it WILL tear if you remove the timing cover first. then its time to replace it. so do yourself a favor and drop the pan. it will ony add about an hour of time to the install. if you have any questions, search on this site first, then post the question if you havent found the answer.

good luck and it will take alot longer then a most cam swaps due to the engines uniqueness. (sp?)
chris

 

I wouldn't grove or anything else to the block or intake to prevent the intake leak, just ruff it up(block, not intake) with some sandpaper, so it has a bite. There's not need to cut a big grove in it to stop it from leaking, just apply the sealer evenly and torque down. The most important advice I can give you is to make sure you keep everything clean, get allo dirt out, as well as cover up any holes so nothing gets in, dirt and other particles are the enemy and will destroy. I left the intake on until I needed to take it off, this way nothing could get blown in there. Sanding down on the aluminum can make small bits to come off and go in the engine. Make sure you pay attention to what your taking off, so you know how it goes on, take pictures if you have to. put labels or mark plugs and such with a marker and put all the bolts in a bag, so you don't lose them. Also tighten all the bolts down to spec and in the right sequence, this is very important. making sure the number one cylinder is at top dead center is a good idea, so you can't screw up the install and optispark, pay attention when you pull that off as it can go on several different positions. Post any questions during the install, this is easier than breaking something. You also need a way to keep the valves up when installing new springs, I used compressed air otherwise if one drops in you'll have to remove the head.

 

Thanks everyone for the tips and tricks. I really appreciate(sp?) the advice and help. Neat thanks for the web site and shoebox that web site is a great help and resource to everyone! thanks everyone again for the help, i'll probly start it tonight after I get off work.

Thanks again
D