What about what I posted a little earlier?

2nd... I see 2 filters at K&N.com which one should I get? exe. or regular?

 

you guys are right some what....Damn i've been working to hard.
But Narrow LSAs tend to increase midrange torque and result in faster reving engines, while wide LSAs result in wider power bands and more peak torque at the price of somewhat lazier initial response.

Duration has a marked affect on a cams's power band and drivalbility. Higher durations increase the top-end at the expense of the low end,but thats just my couple cents

Honeslty you just have to have your pick of gears and your cruise speed,and what you want to shift at to pick what you want. I think were both right,but it just matters what you want to have.

 

Ditto, the more air you move in the more you have to move out. You have that car extremely choked up with stock manifolds.

 

As far as the idle, I am sure its dead on. Most LT1 tachs read about 200rpm high at idle.

 

The .9 I picked up was just with the cam kit. I was already running Mac midlengths before that.

The LT4 knock module is inside the PCM, wedged between the pass. side fender and the firewall. 2 10mm bolts to remove it.

 

Well I figured out the problem partially... I forgot to tell Ion that the cam is a 114LSA so he assumed it was a 112 because thats the most common LSA on that cam.

So I am going to dyno the biyatch hopefully within the next week and send him a dyno sheet so he can make mucho perfectiono tweaks on my PCM. This is the best way to get a tune right?

I am curious, because I am going to dyno before/after... what kind of numbers you think i'll put down?

 

You definately need headers on that car. When I installed my Hotcam Kit(smaller cam than you have) and Edelbrock shorty's I was VERY happy with the increase in power, both in the upper AND lower RPM ranges. As far as the knock module goes, be forewarned that you still may experience false knock even with the LT-4 KM. I was getting 2-10 degrees of retard even with the LT-4 KM, so I defeated the knock sensor and all is well. Unchoke your exhaust, eliminate any knock, and get your car dynotuned and you should be very happy with it. I'm running a PCMFORLESS tune right now and it seems to be working fine, though it is a little rich at idle and WOT.

 

Don't waste any money on a dyno tune. Get headers first. Dyno time is probably $100 or more. Put that towards headers. I would say with you are leaving at least 30-40 rwhp on the table without headers and that cam. I can't believe they recommended a cam that big for you with stock manifolds.

 

agreed. get the right set up on their first and then tune it. get some 4.10's in there eventually also.

 

Exactly, put all you funds towards headers. Then retune the car from Ion. I'm not sure how that cam was matched up with stock manifolds either.

-Dustin-

 

Ditto.

Headers, dyno, then show Ion your dyno sheet and he can adjust the tune by looking at the A/F ratio.

 

I want to get it dyno tuned because I can't afford headers right now... it'll be like 1000$ with install and thats a tad out of my league. I am going with Jet Hot LT's and high-flow cats...

Dave suggested this cam because I am getting headers. Just not right away...

Since my PCM is tuned for a 112LSA and I have a 114... how much power you think i'm losing?

Disabling the Knock Module? That have any cons? Why doesn't everyone just disable it?

How DO YOU disable it?

 

I put a cc306 in my car without headers, and car wasnt any faster (couldnt beat my old roommate's intake/exhaust ls1) then i put a set of jet hot LTs

and my car REALLLLYYY opened up, it was like a diff car....

also i would reccomend lt4 km so that u dont get false knock...

i see u put 114 as ur LSA... if ure NA, i would have reccomended 112...

i didnt read throughly the post, so i dunno, maybe someone else has mentioned these

 

I chose 114 because I don't want to rev to 6500rpms and plus... it wasn't in stock :-/

 

Why do you post if you don't listen to peoples suggestions? Everyone is telling you to skip the dyno tune and save towards headers. You might gain a few and i'm saying less than 5rwhp on a dyno tune without headers. Even if you get the tune dialed in correctly the power gained by it is still going to be choked up by the stock exhaust manifolds. Its only about 500 for a set of good coated headers or about 300 for some used. Learn to install the stuff yourself. There are many install guides on the net showing how to. These cars have more and more problems when you begin to mod them and you'll need to know how to work on them. You might as well start now. Also do a search on the knock module. There is tons of information on it, and brent even has a "how to" guide on it.