I'm running that cam on a 112 LSA. After a week or so of tuning I went to the track at Indy and picked up .9 of a sec in the 1/4 and 8 mph. Previous best was a 14.01@101. I used stock lifters and stock timing chain as well cause the motor only had around 30K to begin with. I did notice a drop in low end as expected. I cant cruise around at 1500rpm anymore. But I'm also running 3.42 gears still and plan to go 4.10. You should probably do the same to get the most out of that cam. Also rev that thing up around 3500 to 4000 and drop that clutch with some BFG Drag radials and shift around 6500rpm. You'll be amazed.
edit - Oh yeah. You need headers too if you dont have 'em already. Didn't see them in the sig so not sure but those manifolds are terrible (choke choke cough)

 

Get it on the dyno and see whats going on. The lack of low end is probably because you dont have gears, or headers. your car will probably sound more lopey once u get the headers. what are you revving your car to now?

 

As mentioned, the bigger the cam, the more the power band moves up. Big cams are great for racing and top end, but in my opinion, if you want a street machine (light to light) a cam that maintains low end is the way to go.

I believe my opimum cam would be around 214/228 on 112 with 1.7s or something simular on a 350.

You should be getting some good power out of that setup and you probably just need some adjustments, but even a stock cam will "jump" off the line even though it runs out of steam in a hurry. JMHO

 

As said before I bet you're getting a lot of false knock. You need to scan it. That cam should scream up top compared to the stocker.

Have you ever even had a mail order tune? My tune from PCMforless was 13.0:1 across the board on the first try.

 

I am thinking about installing that cam. The power band on that cam starts at 3000. CMotorsports recommends any automatic to have at least a 3000 stall converter, so you are going to lose quite a bit of power down low but you will feel it in the end once you can start reving your engine high enough. Also, without headers, that cam cant breathe and you wont get the power that you wanted. Headers should have been installed first in my opinion. I would say slap on some long tube headers and tell us how is feels.

 

Should of went lower then 114 if you wanted some low end grunt. If you dont know already, thats why LE says he has more power in the low end b/c he grinds his with a 108. Heads do some of the work,but most of it is cam.

 

.9 with headers/cam you mean? Or just cam?

Mail Order tune from Ion are garbage? I am definitely bringing it to the Dyno... 2-3 weeks... once I raise 80$ I can spend freely.

Where can I get a LT4 Knock Module? Where does it go in the car?

Well, the car is definitely faster, I noticed it more in 3rd gear around 3000-3500 rpms... car went from 50 - 75 in no time at all. But I climed to like 3500 today and floored it and the tires spun... but I was expected to really just sit there and gain almost no acceleration. I guess its doing its job, i'm just a little paranoid about spending all the cash and expecting a brand new car with 500lbs of torque.. L0L

 

Isn't that backwards? Lowering the LSA usually moves the powerband higher. Low LSA will make it lope more at idle (the cam is inefficient at low rpms). The cam becomes more efficient at higher rpms and that's where it makes good power.

I have a 224/230 114LSA and I does not seem to have lost any low end that I can tell.

 

Lobe separation is the distance (in camshaft degrees) that the intake and exhaust lobe centerlines (for a given cylinder) are spread apart. Lobe separation is a physical characteristic of the camshaft and cannot be changed without regrinding the lobes.

This separation determines where peak torque will occur within the engine's power range. Tight lobe separations (such as 106°) cause the peak torque to build early in basic RPM range of the cam. The torque will be concentrated, build quickly and peak out. Broader lobe separations (such as 112°) allow the torque to be spread over a broader portion of the basic RPM range and shows better power through the upper RPM. shoebox yours is a 114..stock is higher that why you havent lost anything.

I didnt know you were the one with that tech site. I have donated to you before, keep up the good work

 

My headers with 1.6's gave me more power increase than a Hotcam. On LT1 cars you need headers bad, even shorties would be a big improvment.

Lance

 

Quote from Rich Krause:

 

Yeah, 95LT16speed has it backwards. Lower the LSA, the more overlap you have. (Both valves open at same time) Creating less power at lower rpm and more at higher rpm.

 

I agree with Shoebox and Rich Krause. 95lt16speed you have got
your information all confused. Mabye Rich can chime in for a little bit
of schooling here. A tight lobe separation gives you that nasty lope and moves
the power band up in the rpm range. The stock 97 LT1 cam is on something
like a 117* separation.

 

How can you tell if the tune is bad and thats the problem for lack of power? I have to say i'm not that all impressed with the cam... its faster don't get me wrong but I was expecting more then this. I got on it today from about 3k in 2nd and all of 3rd into a little of 4th... car pulled hard but I figured it'd be harder.

The car today had lots of sputtering/rocking back and forth... thats a cam surge right? I got it everytime I let off the gas actually?

Also, the paper from Ion said its supposed to idle at 850rpm's and its at 1000? Interesting?

 

With a bump stick like that you need to get the air in and out of that pig faster, throw on some LT headers, LT4 KM (in the PCM), toss the cat, and get something to suck in more air, like a better filter for your Ram Air or something. Your chokin' the damn thing! Hell the LT1's are choked from the factory anyways, open up its lungs

-Dustin-