LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

bottom end for boost

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Old Aug 14, 2010 | 07:21 PM
  #1  
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bottom end for boost

im planning on building up a nice 383 for boost, somewhere around 11-16 psi.

how would the kit on advanceinductions.com hold up?

the pistons that come with the kit are forged mahle pistons, how well will they hold up to boost?

im mainly just wondering if i should get this kit, or should i peice together my own with a different set of pistons, say JE?

im planning on maybe at the most making 800hp, some day...

the compstar crank and rods should be fine for what i want right?

also, should i have splayed caps installed just to be say?

thanks for any help or imput guys
Old Aug 15, 2010 | 06:59 AM
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I sold my Camaro recently and have a never used 383 block stuffed with a Scat 4340 forged crank. Splayed 4 bolt caps. 6 inch Oliver ($1200) forged rods. JE 26cc dished pistons with gapless rings. There is even a new opti, water pump viscous damper Steff's aluminum pan and TPIS AFR heads, again never used. You can have the lower half for $1500.00 or with the heads for $2000. PM me if you are interested. I have a business so it's easy to ship if you pay shipping.

Professionally INTERNALLY balanced. Cork final honed cylinders also. This unit is ready for boost or Nitrous. I believe it's somewhere around 8.5 to one with the TPIS AFR heads.
Old Aug 15, 2010 | 07:14 AM
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Originally Posted by speedygonzales
I sold my Camaro recently and have a never used 383 block stuffed with a Scat 4340 forged crank. Splayed 4 bolt caps. 6 inch Oliver ($1200) forged rods. JE 26cc dished pistons with gapless rings. There is even a new opti, water pump viscous damper Steff's aluminum pan and TPIS AFR heads, again never used. You can have the lower half for $1500.00 or with the heads for $2000. PM me if you are interested. I have a business so it's easy to ship if you pay shipping.

Professionally INTERNALLY balanced. Cork final honed cylinders also. This unit is ready for boost or Nitrous. I believe it's somewhere around 8.5 to one with the TPIS AFR heads.
That is a terrific deal!
Old Aug 15, 2010 | 08:09 AM
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Please limit offers to buy or sell parts to PM's, and the Marketplace forums.
Old Aug 15, 2010 | 11:14 AM
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pm sent. how are the 6 inch rods for boost? i thought that pushed the pin farther up into the ring lands and that the 5.7 rods were better for running boost...?
Old Aug 15, 2010 | 12:55 PM
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The 6" rods do cause problems, putting the wrist pin deep in the ring pack. A good nitrous piston typically has the ring pack dropped further down from the crown, to keep the rings away from the intense heat. The nitrous piston will typically have a thicker crown. I would assume you would want to do something similar with a high boost forced induction piston. The down side of a piston like that is the extra weight, and the "wobble" that comes from the ring pack not being as high on the piston. It actually reduces NA HP.

My solution with the 3.75" stroke was to use a 5.85" rod. Wrist pin is into the bottom ring, but the pistons came with rail spacers. My approach, definitely overkill for my 800HP setup, was the Callies Stealth (now "Magnum") crank, Oliver billet rods and custom BME pistons. I was just planning ahead for a future build over 1,000HP, but it never happened. But that's a $3,000-3,500 rotating assembly.
Old Aug 15, 2010 | 01:02 PM
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thats what i was thinking, you want more meat on the top of the piston for the same reason pretty much, nitrous or boost whatever it may be. that rotating assy may be overkill for me too. id rather keep it somewhere in the middle. do you think that the compstar stuff would be strong enough for what i want to do? should i just buy the crank rods and pistons seperate that way i can get a better piston like JE or something, JE seems to be what alot of the boosted folks are using for something like 8.5 or 9 to 1 compression
Old Aug 15, 2010 | 03:16 PM
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Originally Posted by speedygonzales
I sold my Camaro recently and have a never used 383 block stuffed with a Scat 4340 forged crank. Splayed 4 bolt caps. 6 inch Oliver ($1200) forged rods. JE 26cc dished pistons with gapless rings. There is even a new opti, water pump viscous damper Steff's aluminum pan and TPIS AFR heads, again never used. You can have the lower half for $1500.00 or with the heads for $2000. PM me if you are interested. I have a business so it's easy to ship if you pay shipping.

Professionally INTERNALLY balanced. Cork final honed cylinders also. This unit is ready for boost or Nitrous. I believe it's somewhere around 8.5 to one with the TPIS AFR heads.
PM sent.
Old Aug 18, 2010 | 05:12 PM
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anyone else? i called my engine guy, and he say it would be about 1100 in labor to do all machine work and assemble the bottom end. is that about right?
Old Aug 18, 2010 | 06:36 PM
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If it includes parts.
Old Aug 18, 2010 | 09:10 PM
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no, thats labor and machine work, hot tank it, install splayed caps, line bore line hone, bore and hone cylinders, deck block, clearance block for the longer stroke, and assemble the bottom end. id say 1100 is decent right?
Old Aug 19, 2010 | 11:30 PM
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I think your over your head with this 800 hp talk.


To make that much power you are talking about a 20k+ build. What blower are you using, or turbo?

Who is building the motor? what topend? who will spec the cam/stall?

A quality bottom end: Callies/lunati/compstar crank, Oilver/lunati/compstar rods, JE/Diamond pistons. Toss on a set of 220 cc heads and things should work out.

Last edited by slomarao; Aug 22, 2010 at 10:20 PM.
Old Aug 20, 2010 | 08:54 AM
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Compstar are very nice pieces. Best of the offshore (Russian! finished and inspected by Callies) engine parts. JE makes an excellent piston. If you call Callies direct they will give you a good price on a RA with their Compstar crank and rods, pistons and rings of your choice, with bearings and balancing.

Rich
Old Aug 20, 2010 | 02:34 PM
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thanks rich, good to know. so for boost, is seems to be JE over mahle for pistons?
Old Aug 20, 2010 | 11:54 PM
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Originally Posted by chevyrules85
thanks rich, good to know. so for boost, is seems to be JE over mahle for pistons?
No experience either way with Mahle, good experience with JE so why mess with success?

Rich



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