LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Bleeding coolant after cam install

Old May 22, 2004 | 12:24 PM
  #1  
brain's Avatar
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Bleeding coolant after cam install

Ok, here goes. After the cam install, we filled the radiator and followed the service manual to bleed coolant. Fans never came on, and freescan reports coolant temp at 63C or so. However, gauge reads over 3/4 up. Also, never sucked in more coolant, cause Im sure the thermostat didnt open up, cause it didnt reach 160. I've been fighting this crap for 4 days now. Should I completely disregard the gauge until it matches, or the computer sensor starts to get too high? Fans came on at set temp, but the gauge was reading almost 250, even though the coolant temp was only at 170. What the hell is happening? Any KNOWN fixes for bleeding coolant? I have searched high and low and all I find is either a person that doesn't have a problem (no help) or a bunch WITH problems, but no solution. ANY ideas?
Old May 22, 2004 | 12:50 PM
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Yeah it can get frustruating if not carefull doing the swap, as in if you blow into one of the coolant lines you've just caused your self more greef lol.

Anyways, pull the thermostat & put coolant in there, then let her warm up 1/4 of the way & shut her down, wait about 30 seconds with the car off, & open up 1 bleed port at a time, I'd start with the one on the thermostat then close it & open up the one of the collant line going to the h20 pump on top. Now start the car up again & keep putting water in the radiator as needed. DO NOT open the bleed ports while the car is running because the water pump tends to suck air in, so only do it when the car warms up, shut the car off then bleed, close bleed ports & start car up again, keep adding coolant.


Unless I'm telling you all this & in actual fact you fergot to put the waterpump drive coupling in, that would be funny
Old May 22, 2004 | 12:57 PM
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What he said ^^^
Old May 23, 2004 | 11:44 AM
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Originally posted by bunker
Yeah it can get frustruating if not carefull doing the swap, as in if you blow into one of the coolant lines you've just caused your self more greef lol.

Anyways, pull the thermostat & put coolant in there, then let her warm up 1/4 of the way & shut her down, wait about 30 seconds with the car off, & open up 1 bleed port at a time, I'd start with the one on the thermostat then close it & open up the one of the collant line going to the h20 pump on top. Now start the car up again & keep putting water in the radiator as needed. DO NOT open the bleed ports while the car is running because the water pump tends to suck air in, so only do it when the car warms up, shut the car off then bleed, close bleed ports & start car up again, keep adding coolant.
It was too much to post the first time, but we did all that.


Unless I'm telling you all this & in actual fact you fergot to put the waterpump drive coupling in, that would be funny
It's not quite as funny as you think. Guess what the problem ended up being. Talk about a pain in the butt. Didn't take too long to fix it, but the pain was waiting for the opti to dry out so the car would start. Not a big deal, cause that opti was on its last leg anyways. As long as it lasts a couple months, I'll be happy. Then I'll do the opti conversion, and maybe even a timing chain and waterpump.
Old May 23, 2004 | 12:00 PM
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Another reason electric water pumps are cool to have...
Old May 23, 2004 | 12:02 PM
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well, what fixed it?
Old May 23, 2004 | 12:51 PM
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It was the waterpump drive coupler. My friend put the waterpump on, I was hooking up all the stuff on the top of the motor. Stinking Mustang owner! J/k its not his fault. These cars are pretty stupid, so similar to SBC, but yet so different.
Old May 24, 2004 | 12:39 AM
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Easy part to forget on the install! Glad you figured it out!
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