Well, I thought I would do a complete coolant flush. Drained the radiator,
removed the driver's side block drain plug, then went to the passenger
side to remove the knock sensor . . . it wont budge. I used a 22mm
socket on the sensor's "hex head" and the sensor's "outer body" began
to turn (it's apparently a two-piece unit), but the main body of the
unit would not turn.

I used vice grips on the sensor's OD, but it slipped off and bumped
the electrical "snout", which broke slightly (the snout being what the
electrical connector snaps on to). The snout didnt break off cleanly,
but only partially, so I pushed it back straight and put the connector
back on.

I think i am going to leave the sensor in place and not worry about
draining that side of the block. Could there be a side-effect because
the electrical connector snout broke? What might I expect as a worse
case condition (engine timing problems)?

What's the secret tool to removing the knock sensor?

 

i just replaced mine a few minutes ago...i had the same problem with the inner spinning...just dropped the y-pipe and used some standard channel locks and came off...with the snout broke off, i would think the sensor would not be able to read or read correctly...id replace it if it were me

 

If you damaged the sensor "electronically", you will get a code for a faulty knock sensor circuit, and the PCM will start pulling timing almost all the time.

Easy to check.... you need 4500 ohms between the pin on the sensor and the block, with the wire off. With the wire on, key on, you should see about 2.5V between the pin and the block.

If you damaged it "mechanically", if might leak coolant.

 

Thanks Fred . . . 3920 ohms between sensor pin and block and about
5v with the key on. It's not damaged mechanically, as I never got
the chance to get it to turn (except as mentioned earlier and confirmed
by groundpoundinlt). I happened upon shoebox's test for the sensor
and I appear to be in spec (range is 3300-4500) and calls for 5v.

Thanks again for the quick response.

To groundpoundinlt - I think I'll hold out (replacement) as long as
I can, as I will be doing a complete engine build in the near future.

 

glad you got it figured out...

 

5V with the key on is the correct value when measuring from the single wire to the block ground, with the wire off the sensor. When you attach the wire to the sensor, the voltage should be at about 2.5V. If the voltage falls outside the range of 1.5-3.5V, you will get a code and constant knock retard.

 

Thanks - I'll do that test in a while.

 

But that's what I suggested you do in the first place??????