I pull 2.0 60's without powerbraking on stock suspension.....but then again i have a low elevation. Like said above if you want to go powerbraking around 1200 is all the brakes will hold.....last time i tried that i ran a 15 something.....LMAO....when i felt the tires slipping like a *****.....i was like hey let's give the people what they want.......smoke show!!!

About the auto manual argument.......yes they compare them with different gears witch is unfair.......but the fact is you can launch at whatever rpm you want in a manual.......you can do 6,000rpm clutch drops if you want.............lol


I love my auto


O yea and i always run in drive.......i am pretty sure it is better.......but i am going to check it again this year too.......they basically run the same.....very close. They feel totally different........try it around town in both sometime.

 

Also drop the hammer when the 3rd yellow lights up.. don't wait for the green.. you'll get good R/T's that way..

 

I cut low 1.9 60's on F1 gsd3's with the stock convertor. Best is in sig. I don't go to the track much, but I ran a 1.950, 1.929, and 1.917 60'. I can consistently hit mid-low 1.9's.
KDWS
F1 gsd3's

 

OD or D, doesn't matter. It will NOT make a difference. It's better to leave it in Drive so when you let out you can slow down easier. All you guys saying the it feels different in OD and D are absolutely strange. Mine is the same all the way through.



Put it in D, smoke the tires a lil bit, and from that point you'll have to play with how you stall it. If I read right, you have 2.73s, you're car will shift into 3rd just before the finish line and you'll probably be around 4k rpms. I go through the traps at 4200 rpms right now with my 94 Z with 2.73s and LTs. Have fun when you go.

 

you are silly i can totally tell a difference in mine. Overdrive is meant to upshift too quickly to preserve gas. That way if you are driving on the highway it will shift up and lower the RPMs which is not exactly ideal for racing

 

On topic: With stock converter and gears, you're best bet is just to mash the gas off idle from a dead stop. If you spin, feather the gas out of the hole.

To have you automatic car slay 6 speed cars up and down the quarter, you need 5 items.

1) Torque converter, I recommend a Precision Industries Vigilante 2800.
2) Sticky tires. Nitto NT555R drag radials will do fine for awhile, but you'll want to upgrade to ET Streets when you make more power.
3) Tranny cooler. With the torque converter, you'll be making a lot of extra heat.
4) Gears for the rear differental. People generally go 3.42's or 3.73's in an auto car.
5) Shift kit if you want to firm up the shifts.

Not at wide open throttle. If you're in D(O) in a 2.73 gear car, or D in a 3.23 car, it'll shift 1-2, 2-3, 3-4 at redline at WOT. Having the shifter in a different gear does not change the shift points at WOT. Stock shift points are 1-2 @ 5700 rpm, all other gears 5800.

Edit: Should be the same for your car too, even though you've got a 700R4.

 

i pulled 2.0's all day on my Dayton Zr's

 

Hey man what's up? I have fulda's too, and BFG DR's for the track.....the fulda's aren't bad at all IMO. They grip real nice on turns, but in a straight line they're not so great, and in the wet they're good too. But anyway, I've ran in overdrive and drive back to back, it doesn't make a difference at all, I ran the same time both times....try to go AROUND the water. I know they put that wall up at moroso making it nearly impossible, but try to. Do a small burnout, stage the car, and go about 3/4 throttle on the last yellow, then floor it all the way. I'll cya there, so look for me in the staging lanes...my license plate reads Z28 MFS so you'll know it's me. Any more advice feel free to ask.

 

Thank you.

 

cool thanx for all the replies

 

Not so sure about the stock shift points being at 5800, mine goes to 6200 at WOT all the time in OD. Unless the valve body job i had done has anything to do with it, the car has always shifted this way, unless the previous owner had it tuned to that which is very possible. It shifts fine, real quick shifts at WOT and breaks the tires loose goin into 2nd.

 

Your tach is probably innacurate....

 

PCM varified 5700-5800. Normally stock tach's are 200 rpm high (observed on an LT1 Scanmaster). When I was on stock programming, it rapped out right to "6000," and in actuallity it was shifting at 5700 or 5800.

 

You sure about that?

I'm not aware of everything but not sure there is a tranny table in the PCM that looks at if you are in OD or D to determine shift points. Here are the major tranny tables...

http://www.bfranker.badz28.com/fbody/94zshiftmodes.htm

 

D or OD doesnt matter with a stock car because you will only be trapping around 100

the tach and speedo are usually off at WOT, mine said I was at 92 when I trapped at 96-98, and the tach is off because it says i go way past redline which is wrong too, not very accurate