Best Clutch for mid-high 11s
Originally posted by texanmutt
Well if you knew how to drive your car or anything about F-bodies you might actually know a thing or 2 about the history of spec clutches with your 103mph long tube headered car doing 2.194 sixties on nitto's.
Well if you knew how to drive your car or anything about F-bodies you might actually know a thing or 2 about the history of spec clutches with your 103mph long tube headered car doing 2.194 sixties on nitto's.
As far as I remember from the McLeod price sheet, the Street Twin for a 4th gen is no more expensive than a comparable unit for other cars.
It's an awsome clutch and well worth it. Mine survived two years of street/strip use with 733rwhp. This included three or four of my "patented" 3rd gear strip launches
. Just one of these boners would have fried the other available clutches. In addition, most of my strip launches invlolve some clutch slip, that's what worked the best. That's a 4,000lb+ car with over 700rwhp.
After I wore it out, I sent it back and they completey refreshed it including resurfacing the flywheel for <$400 including shipping.
Don't bother with anything else.
Rich Krause
It's an awsome clutch and well worth it. Mine survived two years of street/strip use with 733rwhp. This included three or four of my "patented" 3rd gear strip launches
. Just one of these boners would have fried the other available clutches. In addition, most of my strip launches invlolve some clutch slip, that's what worked the best. That's a 4,000lb+ car with over 700rwhp. After I wore it out, I sent it back and they completey refreshed it including resurfacing the flywheel for <$400 including shipping.
Don't bother with anything else.
Rich Krause
I liked my SPEC clutch. I used a stage 1 W/ organic disk &
Fidanza aluminum flywheel. It was nice and smooth, easy to
drive. My, Hot Cam W/ Hooker LT ,car puts 345 HP & 345 TQ to
the wheels N/A & 430 HP & 500 TQ on a 100 shot. The clutch
lasted all last summer with no problems. I had alot of street use
and some strip use, I ran 12.91 @ 110.9 N/A street tires (about 5
passes 1.9-2.1 60'), and I ran 11.5- 12.001 @ 117-119 MPH on
Hosser Drags (26X10X15) 10 PSI (about 15 passes 1.63-1.71 60'
@ 5500-6000 RPM clutch drop). It just now started to feel a
little "mushy" , so I am replacing it with another SPEC clutch
probably a kevlar. My stage 1 clutch blew out 3 10 bolts and 1 LS-
1 aluminum DS... well the N2O & slicks helped a little. If your car
is mostly stock just save your $$$ and get a stage 1.
Fidanza aluminum flywheel. It was nice and smooth, easy to
drive. My, Hot Cam W/ Hooker LT ,car puts 345 HP & 345 TQ to
the wheels N/A & 430 HP & 500 TQ on a 100 shot. The clutch
lasted all last summer with no problems. I had alot of street use
and some strip use, I ran 12.91 @ 110.9 N/A street tires (about 5
passes 1.9-2.1 60'), and I ran 11.5- 12.001 @ 117-119 MPH on
Hosser Drags (26X10X15) 10 PSI (about 15 passes 1.63-1.71 60'
@ 5500-6000 RPM clutch drop). It just now started to feel a
little "mushy" , so I am replacing it with another SPEC clutch
probably a kevlar. My stage 1 clutch blew out 3 10 bolts and 1 LS-
1 aluminum DS... well the N2O & slicks helped a little. If your car
is mostly stock just save your $$$ and get a stage 1.
Last edited by 526 SS 96; May 1, 2003 at 10:54 AM.
Originally posted by Dave 96TA
Wow you're a d1ck. I've owned every generation of F-body except the first, and done every mod to each one myself (save for welding), so don't assume I don't know anything. As for the times, the (stock disc) clutch was a goner, which is why I just replaced it with the SPEC. I'm sure you could get 1.6 short times with less than 85% of the power reaching the rear. Get a clue. I've already got two PMs from people saying not to worry about you because you're known to be a jerk.
Wow you're a d1ck. I've owned every generation of F-body except the first, and done every mod to each one myself (save for welding), so don't assume I don't know anything. As for the times, the (stock disc) clutch was a goner, which is why I just replaced it with the SPEC. I'm sure you could get 1.6 short times with less than 85% of the power reaching the rear. Get a clue. I've already got two PMs from people saying not to worry about you because you're known to be a jerk.
Originally posted by texanmutt
No, I'm not a d1ck. Sometimes you just have to make your point to get people off the bandwagon. Well, blaming the clutch doesn’t explain all of your 60' times. I've pulled 2.0 sixties on a burnt up slp disk on eagle F1's. You get a clue and get off the spec clutch bandwagon. As for people PM'ing you, that's really nice, seeing as I haven’t posted on here for 6 months since because I haven’t had a computer. Sounds like someone has a chip on their shoulder, maybe it was another spec "fan".
No, I'm not a d1ck. Sometimes you just have to make your point to get people off the bandwagon. Well, blaming the clutch doesn’t explain all of your 60' times. I've pulled 2.0 sixties on a burnt up slp disk on eagle F1's. You get a clue and get off the spec clutch bandwagon. As for people PM'ing you, that's really nice, seeing as I haven’t posted on here for 6 months since because I haven’t had a computer. Sounds like someone has a chip on their shoulder, maybe it was another spec "fan".
I have the sudden urge to go buy a Street Twin...
Make that 5 PMs. Gone for 6 months and they hate you that much? Ouch.
Come and Ride my street twin band wagon as i chirp 4th gear on ur a$$ (its still Bolt On too
).. IMHO For what "most" people want .. Which is the "Feel" of a performance clutch then SPEC is the way to go.. But if you want the "performance" of a peformance clutch.. You should by all means get a street twin.. cause their is no other clutch out there w/ the capability in its "out of the box" form to handle 900hp and thats the mild disk's .. So spend less now pay more later.. not my problem.. I have had spec in the past and was Less than amused.. but i can do a whole clutch job now in under 3 hrs..
Thank you Spec..
).. IMHO For what "most" people want .. Which is the "Feel" of a performance clutch then SPEC is the way to go.. But if you want the "performance" of a peformance clutch.. You should by all means get a street twin.. cause their is no other clutch out there w/ the capability in its "out of the box" form to handle 900hp and thats the mild disk's .. So spend less now pay more later.. not my problem.. I have had spec in the past and was Less than amused.. but i can do a whole clutch job now in under 3 hrs..
Thank you Spec..
btw the twin uses a valeo plate (lt1/4) so your point is moot.. btw take a look at what a street twin does to a bolt on car 
http://image1ex.villagephotos.com/pu...sp?id_=2070788

http://image1ex.villagephotos.com/pu...sp?id_=2070788
I never said the McLoed was a bad clutch. I simply made a recommendation early in the thread. My intentions were and are to help the author, not hijack the thread and **** on everyone elses opinions.
I can chirp em through 4 N/A, and I don't think the author has 900 hp, so comparing a full on race clutch with a warmed up street clutch is point less. If the time comes when I need a street twin I will buy it, but for a bolt on daily driver it is a little excessive.
Dang. Im half way through installing a new Spec Stage 3 carbon disk clutch and new PP. From what I was being told the stage 3 sounded good. Keep in mind I would rather buy a new clutch than have to pull a couple "g" out of my butt to buy a 12 bolt or 9" when the street twin breaks my rear end or maybe even the input shaft on my tranny. Nobody seems to be mentioning that.


