I've got a '93 Z28 with a T56 out of a '96, 4.10 gears, every bolt-on imaginable (excluding N20 or S/C...), and will be upgrading heads, cam, injectors, fuel pump, and PCM. I can't say for sure what the numbers will be for the heads, but they'll be comparable to say, the IRS stage II heads (2.00", 1.56"). I want the most power I can get out of it, while also taking advantage of my 6-speed & 4.10s. I've never had a car with an aftermarket cam, so I don't know what streetable is, but I really don't care how choppy the idle is. I just want to drive it normally without any problems (loss of low-end, severe vacuum loss, etc.)...what are my best options?

 

If you want the car to accelerate well at 2000-2500 RPM and still pull past 6000 RPM, the Comp XE 224-230 cam would be my suggestion. It seems like what you are after. If you are after 400-410 RWHP, you would need a larger cam like the XE 230-236, 236-242, GM 847 cam, etc, but you would lose "some" power below 3000 RPM as compared to the XE 224-230. I do not believe this cam would be too large for anyone and it would still give a VERY noticable increase in power.

Depending on the heads, you "should" be able to make 350-380 RWHP with this cam if you have all of the bolt ons (1 3/4 headers, ORY-pipe, 58 TB, cut out, cai, etc) and a good tune.
A dyno tune, electric WP and some NICE heads could produce more. The low end power would be awesome as well with this cam. There are other cams that could make 10-20 more HP at 6500 RPM but you WOULD lose some of the low end power that you talked about.

CMotorsports has a kit with this cam (and other cams) at a good price.

Nighttrain66@msn.com

 

Sounds like the 224/230 is what I'm looking for...I'm just wanting to break into 11's N/A on slicks...

 

I second lloyds heads. I am partial to Comp cams Xe series. They have a really nice "moderate" ramp coming out thats nice for the street.

With a six speed, I suggest I 108 or 110 LSA. However, I urge you to read this thread

http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...hreadid=120198

Third page or so should give you a good "how to pick a cam" walk through.

Ask any general questions you have in here if you dont get something. It all just "clicked" for me a day or two ago.

 

Hmmm...that brings up more questions...see, I have shorty headers & 3" exhaust, no cat, which exits through a dynomax bullet muffler and dumps about 9"-12" in front of the rear axle. I would think from Damon's response, that I would want a tight LSA? He said 106-108, but I dunno if I should go any less than 110. See, this setup is only temporary, say for the next 2-3 years, until I build my turbo stroker. Once I do heads & cam, the only thing else I'm gonna do is slap on a 150 wet shot of nitrous...but I will RARELY use it (maybe once every 2 weeks). I want as much solid power as possible...but I don't wanna screw it up with N2O...but I don't want a N20 cam when I rarely use N20...

 

I would not go any lower than 110. I would suggest a 112. A tighter lobe sep will be tougher to tune if you are getting a mail order tune. A dyno tune would be highly recommended even on a cam that small. The tighter lobe sep WILL produce less vacuum as well.

2 things that stand out from Rich's post (FWIW, I agree with as well) are-

1- tighter than 110 lobe sep is better suited for strokers.

2- go with what is proven unless you have the $$$ to expirament.

The 224-230 on a 112 seems to be proven for what you are after. The 112 lobe sep (as opposed to a 110 or 108) will make the power band broader and the vacuum higher. If you are wanting the engine to "pull" at 2000 RPM and above 6000 RPM, you would need a "broad power band. a smaller duration cam and playing with lobe sep. could get you more power at 2000 OR more power above 6000 but since you are wanting power at bothe places and everywhere in between, the 224-230 112 seems to be proven to work for what you are after.

NightTrain66

 

I agree with with NightTrain's comments, in general, and suggest you do read that thread. It's very hard to be too specific because of the huge number of variables involved and the differences in individual preferences. What I find unacceptable in terms of drivability may be great for you. About the only thing you can quantify is idle vacuum, and even that's somewhat hard to predict unless someone else is running exactly the same cam with the same intake, exhaust, etc.

Talking about LSA, generalizations are of only limited value. You have to think of the whole package. Duration, LSA, ICL, compression ratio, etc. along with what your goals and budget are all play into the equation. But I agree that for a 350, 108 is small. And as I hope I made clear in my comments on the other thread, 108 LSA is pretty much a max power setup, ie for racing with maybe occasional street use. A 108LSA HR cam is kind of a stupid idea, so I hope I didn't mislead anyone. If you need to make power in the rev range where a 108LSA cam will work best, you should get a SR. I will say that if I were going to do a hot street NA HR setup, I would probably end with a 110SLA cam. But it would be on a stroker and it would have steeper, shorter lobes than a "hot street" cam like the CC306. That brings up another generalization: you want the maximum lift/duration you can get. There is a big caveat here: high end cams need high end pushrods, rockers, retainers. etc. And spring selection becomes very important after you picked your cam, especially if it's a "steep" high lift cam.

But there is no "one size fits all" here. For example, I am running a 224/236 "custom" XE grind on a 116LSA. Works great for my 385ci low CR, blower+ N2O application. Would probably suck on a NA 350.

Rich Krause

 

Gee...Nobody has suggested the CC305? You guys can play with all that XE energy stuff if you want, but Brian (ProjectZ) went a 11.91 with only a CC305, 1.6 rockers, and LT's. This is a stock suspension, head, bottom end, injector, and t-body car...full weight with power everything and t-tops.

Frank

 

With ported heads I really like the XE 230/236. It is plenty streetable (I have a friend that runs it in his daily driver auto) and it can make over 400rwhp.