LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Anyone run straight h2o and water wetter in the summer?

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Old Jun 26, 2003 | 12:54 PM
  #16  
mycarisfasterthanyours's Avatar
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Joined: May 2001
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From: Prescott Valley, AZ
I agree with Trey on this one. I have a 383 with 12:1 compression and I can drive it in Phoenix during the summer and not have any overheating problems. I do use water wetter and run an electric water pump though.
Old Jun 26, 2003 | 01:04 PM
  #17  
Gripenfelter's Avatar
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From: Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
I run at the halfway mark and in bumper to bumper traffic with the 3200 stall I get close to the redline.
Old Jun 26, 2003 | 01:17 PM
  #18  
ksmyss's Avatar
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From: O'fallon, mo
mine will hardly get a needle above the first mark. and that is in traffic with the air on or at the track after a pass hot lapping the car.
Old Jun 26, 2003 | 01:40 PM
  #19  
IDOXLR8's Avatar
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From: Rochester Hills, MI
Originally posted by 96 WS6
I'm with trey, you guys have some weird problems... I can sit in traffic and it RARELY and I mean RARELY goes past the first mark even if I'm sweating like a pig, if I'm cruising it's all gravy, I have a blower too. Adding stuff like that has no effect on the cooling system. Now if you add a blower and you add a heavier foot, the cooling system will obviously pick up more heat on it's track back to the radiator. Or if you added a blower that was lubricated by coolant, then yeah I can understand. But unless you are romping on the gas more, engine mods don't make your car run hotter. I'm using about 50/50 with 1 bottle of water wetter.
My heating issue is based on running a single fan. My single 16-in fan supports 2350 cfm (I guess it is either not enough or I am not covering enough radiator surface). I recently removed the AC condensor to fit another fan in front of the radiator. I am running all the goodies - electric waterpump, 160 thermostat. 2 bottles of water wetter with straight water. The reason I was running a single fan was because of the limited space with a 12 rib blower setup, Be Cool radiator and electric waterpump. Also alot of people rely on the marks on their gages. I can tell you when my gage is on the 1/4 mark I am running 195 degrees. This tells me that the factory gages are off.
Old Jun 26, 2003 | 01:43 PM
  #20  
94Sleeper's Avatar
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Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 196
From: Tucson, Az
I have a 383 11:1 compression with a 230/236 cam and I can run OK in Tucson summer traffic with coolant temps hanging around 180. I run a BeCool Radiator, CSI pump, and 160 Stat, 13lb pressure cap (Recomended by BeCool).

If I want to run the AC an a hot day (102+) the coolant temperature starts to climb to 220-230 in city traffic. Without the AC no cooling problems at all. I don't think this is too unusual in that the AC Condensor increases the temperature of the air over the radiator to over 140 degrees F.

One problem that can cause LT1s to run too hot is a weak pressure cap. Stock Pressure caps are rated at around 18 PSI (??) and if the pressuer cap allows the system to run at a lower pressure it will lose a lot of efficiency. For a few bucks these are cheap insurance.
Old Jun 26, 2003 | 01:47 PM
  #21  
FastZinTennessee's Avatar
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Joined: Mar 2001
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From: Costa Mesa, CA
I had straight water in the car right after the heads and cam swap. It cooled the car really well. As soon as I put in a jug of antifreeze it started heating up more in traffic. If water wetter will help stop corrosion I'd say go for straight water and the additive.

John
Old Jun 26, 2003 | 01:57 PM
  #22  
IDOXLR8's Avatar
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Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 2,784
From: Rochester Hills, MI
Originally posted by 94Sleeper
I have a 383 11:1 compression with a 230/236 cam and I can run OK in Tucson summer traffic with coolant temps hanging around 180. I run a BeCool Radiator, CSI pump, and 160 Stat, 13lb pressure cap (Recomended by BeCool).

If I want to run the AC an a hot day (102+) the coolant temperature starts to climb to 220-230 in city traffic. Without the AC no cooling problems at all. I don't think this is too unusual in that the AC Condensor increases the temperature of the air over the radiator to over 140 degrees F.

One problem that can cause LT1s to run too hot is a weak pressure cap. Stock Pressure caps are rated at around 18 PSI (??) and if the pressuer cap allows the system to run at a lower pressure it will lose a lot of efficiency. For a few bucks these are cheap insurance.
I already have the 13lb pressure cap recommended by Be Cool.
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