Hi there

I am reinstalling my engine/ trans/ k member back into my car. I have the body back down on the k member. I have 4 of the 6 bolts in the k member most of the way in, 1 at all 4 corners and both studs of both shock towers have nuts on them. The problem I am having is the engine and trans are not straight in the body. The trans is off center of the transmission hump by about a inch or two and is close on the passenger side. I cannot align the transmission cross member. I have the car on jackstands in the front, and on ramps in the rear. Should I jack up the k member and get pressure off the 4 bolts, then try to pry the transmission to get the trans cross member to align ? Or is there another way of doing this. Please let me know what you can advise me on this.

tia

andy schuck

 

I lower the body as close to the engine and set the body on jackstands. I then put a chain on the heads and pull the motor up to the body with the hoist. Like so....

http://www.ace1252.com/images/CC503_...ack_in_Z28.jpg

This is also with a jack under the trans....I pull the engine up, jack the trans, pull the engine to the body, and lift the body off the jack stands(just a 1/2 inch off both stands) to make sure the k-member is seated on the frame.

This setup allows you to swing the motor back and forth to get the alignment k-member pins into the frame.

Before I tighten the k-member bolts, I make sure I get the trans cross member bolts into the body. I then torque the k-member bolts followed by the trans cross member bolts.

You need to be careful with the back tires on ramps. I used ramps one time and found the body moved too much to keep me comfortable. The rear wheels seated in old wheels with tires on them are much more stable.

 

I have never had a problem. With those pins, everything always lines right up. I would just leave the K member bolts (all 6) a little bit loose so you can shift the trans over to line up with the mount holes. Maybe use a pry bar.

Just leave the k member on the dolly and lower the car slowly down on the alignment pins and the shock tower bolts. You could use a second pair of hands here. Then lift the car a little with the hoist while lifting the back of the trans with a floor jack under the trans at the same time. Put ramps under the front tires and then go underneath and bolt the back of the trans and remove the floor jack.

 

I used the following rig to do it myself -- floor jack under k-member,
engine bar to lift either side of the engine as needed engine, and hooked a tie down to the rear of the tranny and underside of the car to pull the engine/tranny square. Took a lot of little bit here, little bit there.

 

Are you sure the motor mounts were installed correctly? You shouldn't have to "pull it square".

 

I am wondering if the car has been hit and the front frame rails are out of alignment....

 

I chalked my experience up to "manufacturing error" though in re-reading the o.p., my error was maybe 1/4 inch not 2 inches so there probably is something wrong. My problem was doing motor mounts and K member at the same time by myself with an engine bar; I needed to pull the tranny off center to get the driver side mount bolts holes to line up as i was not able to readily move the engine by myself and thread a bolt.

 

I found the problem, it was my steering shaft was not connected and was binding against my headers, pushing the engine to the passenger side. Thanks for all the reply's, car is running now, I am soooooo happy.

 

Thanks for the update and I'm glad you got it sorted....

 

Hey. I was reading up on this. My front sub frame is misaligned back by approx. 5/8" on the passengers side when measiring from center to center between the front and rear wheel hubs. The car was ditched a few years ago when i jad a seizure driving it. The windshield was intacked and no creases or discernable body bamage to the front clip, uni-body frames rails or sub frame. I've since replaced the entire front suspension with new adjustable lower control arms BMR spring KYB struts all all moog mounts. All name brand with in the past 6 months because the front right lower control arm was visually bent where the strut bolts up. The only OEM parts remaining on the front end are the upper control arms and mounts which both show no visable damage . I was told it cold be straightened .. Pulled straight .. Adjusted ..?? But im not sure of the process or how to do it. I need to take a few more measurements with the front wheels off yet. I'm just looking for a little advise as I just got my license back from a medical suspention and this car is my ticket back to work as a 310T truck and coach mechanic. Any help and/or advise would be greatly appreciated!!!

Thanks. Joe

Contact:
joseph.a.j.tucker@gmail.com