Im getting ready to rebuild two of my 4L60E's. One needs a basic rebuild from too much nos-this is my original factory one. My other one is a built one from a company in Florida-they suck; this one needs 3-4 clutches and a sprag unit but has built hard parts and it is still in the car.

Anyway, my question is what is the order of removal one should follow when removing a trans from a 94 LT1?

Anybody know of good trans adapters to floor jacks that are inexpensive?
thanks
Daniel

 

I just did this about 2 months ago.
Jack car up as far as possible - on a lift is even better as jackstands won'tgo high enough (I have several 4"x12"x12" blocks that I stack under the stands.
I always shake the car a couple of times to make sure it is stable.
Drain the trans pan of fluid. Nothing like the smell of burnt trans fluid in the morning.
Loosen the bolt on the torque arm mount (at the transmission)
Lossen the back torque arm bolts (don't remove just yet)
If you are using stands on the rear axle, you can remove the torque arm.
If you are using a lift, you need a trans jack to support the rear axle.
Once torque are is removed, you can remove the body brace under the car.
Remove the mount for the exhaust from the trans.
Loosen the nuts on the exhaust manifolds.
I use a floor jack and a peice of 3/4" plywood under the transmission pan - a transmission adapter or trans jack is even better.
Remove the bolt holding the trans mount to the crossmember.
Adjust the jack to the trans pan (use the mounting straps as available)
Take the pressure off the trans cross member and remove the bolts and crossmember
Remove the main electrical connector and the VSS plug
Lossen and then detach the trans cooler lines USE A LINE WRENCH ON THE FITTINGS
Lower the trans jack and allow the motor and trans to tilt back - this will alllow you to get to the transmission mounting bolts and remove the torque arm mount.
Remove the torque arm mount
Unbolt the 6 bolts holding the trans to the engine. You will need as many extensions as you can find - I use wobble extensions but you can also use universal joints to allow the whole thing to flex a bit and reach all the bolts.
Raise the jack to the point the engine/trans are about level.
Support the engine oil pan and lower the jack until the pan touches the support.
Now you can wiggle (for lack of a better term) the tailshaft of the trans to work it off the support pins at the back of the block. If you are using the plywood on the floor jack - BE VERY CAREFUL TO NOT DROP THE TRANS ON YOUR HEAD HANDS OR OTHER BODY PARTS. IT IS HEAVY AND HAS MANY SHARP EDGES.............Ask how i know.....
Once the trans is loose from the block lower the jack and remove from under the car.

I'm sure someone here has a better listing with a link......
As to the trans jack adapter - Try Harbor Freight - I know they have one out by you.

 

http://www.zmydust.com/tech.html

I have an A4 tranny removal guide in there.

 

I understand that the car has to be jacked up pretty high. Will the regular size jack stands get high enough or will I need to invest in home bigger jack stands or blocks of wood?

Im getting ready to rebuild my 4L60E (ya, want it done right with the parts you know are going in, do it yourself, no more shops-my 3rd trans now!). Anybody know where I can get these specialty tools required for working on the 4L60E at a reasonable price?

You mentioned supporting the motor when trans is out. How should I go about this, using what, placing it where, etc?
thanks
Daniel

 

I don't recall where I mentioned supporting the motor... if I did, it's not necessary. Feel free to copy/paste where I mentioned that and I will fix it

 

I always support the motor when I remove a trans. I use a small piece of 2x4 and a bottle jack under the oil pan.
You can always let the engine rest on the firewall. Note that it does not work with a Gen 1 (standard SBC) as you will destroy at least the distributor cap.
As to the jack stands, I have a set of 3-ton stands from Harbor Freight. I went to Home Depot and found a piece of 4 x 12 beam in the remnant pile and had it cut into 12" x 12" pieces. I had 3 under each jack stand and did not have enough room.

 

Thanks for the input.
I think Im gonna try and use our local community college Automotive department, lifts, tools, etc. Doing it on my back might be a bit tedious.

I have learned about the 4L60E in the process. One thing for sure is, if you dont have a deep wallet, stick with glides, TH's for power adders like nitrous. 4L60E's I see only handle so much.

thanks
Daniel