AI 200cc H/C 1/4 mile, dyno, & build VIDEO!
Isn't you car also running 12:1 compression? I think I read that somewhere but wasn;t sure if it was you or not. Your car is great, and sounds good too. I certainly can appreciate a full interior car that runs times like that.
I know you said you wanted a street car and we were talking about what is and is not streetable.
I agree with you on spools not really making a streetable car, big stalls either. LOL but you said you get like 8mpg I'm not sure that I would consider that streetable either. Sure you CAN do it but ouch!
Again great times I really am looking forward to seeing what happens this spring with the new ring and pinion, and the two stage. I swear I saw a video of your car running 10 something though. Maybe I have you and someone else confused?!?
I know you said you wanted a street car and we were talking about what is and is not streetable.
I agree with you on spools not really making a streetable car, big stalls either. LOL but you said you get like 8mpg I'm not sure that I would consider that streetable either. Sure you CAN do it but ouch!
Again great times I really am looking forward to seeing what happens this spring with the new ring and pinion, and the two stage. I swear I saw a video of your car running 10 something though. Maybe I have you and someone else confused?!?
godspeed1976: The car gets 12-15 mpg on the street. It's like any average SUV or truck, so I don't think it's that bad considering the power it makes. WOT burns even more fuel. Using more fuel is just part of the game, I don't mind. Fuel economy was the last thing on my list of goals for this project. If you want a 20+ mpg street racer then you are looking at the wrong platform. I know that stock Civics with turbo's get way better milage, but even they are below 20mpg when in the boost. To me streetability means that I can use the car as I normally would and not have the ride quality, handeling, or comfort stripped out. Also, I run a full exhaust on the street to keep the cops at bay. The X-pipe is cool, but not streetable... are you starting to see my way of thinking? Also, it is too soon to speculate on the actual fuel milage at this point. Jeff Creech has not tuned the car perfectly, he gave me a mail order tune so I could get the thing up and running, and we tried some things over the phone to get it to do good at WOT. I know it runs rich at idle and part throttle tip in so there is more to be had out of the package. By spring it should be all squared away with the tuning (taking a small trip to see Jeff) and I will be able to tell you guys for sure what the MPG is.
You did see a video of my car running 10's. That was my old AI 190 top end and HR cam with some N20. That really should have gone high 9's/low 10's, but the clutch would not hold it, and the passes in the video where from the first and only visit to the track on that combo. I would like to see this car in the 10's N/A on this combo and get well into the 9's on N20.
And yes, it is 12:1
You did see a video of my car running 10's. That was my old AI 190 top end and HR cam with some N20. That really should have gone high 9's/low 10's, but the clutch would not hold it, and the passes in the video where from the first and only visit to the track on that combo. I would like to see this car in the 10's N/A on this combo and get well into the 9's on N20.
And yes, it is 12:1
yea, it was about 30 lbs with all the padding/sound deadener. thats what I did with the seats forever. Pull out pass seat for track only days. Everything helps you know. I'm swapin to Kirkeys full time now.
I ran a 4.71 gear on those vids. I also had the shocks on 2 on those runs so it was really soft. I later bumped it up to 5 on front to keep the front end down on the launch. This caused more bog..but better 60'. I know with alittle testing with launch rpm and suspension the car had a high 1.3 in it. I'm now going with front end travel limiters to help control the front while not effecting the lift speed. I'm also going to have to swap gears..probably the 4.57s in my attic since on my 132 run I crossed the trap right when I went on the limiter...I hope to be faster now so I have to go down in gear. Also with the new heads I had a better power band so the car may have been faster with the old setup with less gear. Its all speculation now since things are changing. I have friends that go 1.35s in ls1 6 speeds and they still have a small bog. I've found my best launches have been when I wraped the tires over a few times to keep the rpms up while still hookin hard. No fun for the crowd since it doesn't do the big wheelies but great for et/mph.
Your gonna love the 2 step. Its fun. Pull up to the line..put the clutch on the floor to engage the 2 step ..put the throttle on the wood..see last yellow and let her rip. If you can hook it expect a violent launch(like someone punched you in the chest) and you will find the weak links in your drivetrain..lol. Good luck man.
Are you still running a 2 bolt main block?
I ran a 4.71 gear on those vids. I also had the shocks on 2 on those runs so it was really soft. I later bumped it up to 5 on front to keep the front end down on the launch. This caused more bog..but better 60'. I know with alittle testing with launch rpm and suspension the car had a high 1.3 in it. I'm now going with front end travel limiters to help control the front while not effecting the lift speed. I'm also going to have to swap gears..probably the 4.57s in my attic since on my 132 run I crossed the trap right when I went on the limiter...I hope to be faster now so I have to go down in gear. Also with the new heads I had a better power band so the car may have been faster with the old setup with less gear. Its all speculation now since things are changing. I have friends that go 1.35s in ls1 6 speeds and they still have a small bog. I've found my best launches have been when I wraped the tires over a few times to keep the rpms up while still hookin hard. No fun for the crowd since it doesn't do the big wheelies but great for et/mph.
Your gonna love the 2 step. Its fun. Pull up to the line..put the clutch on the floor to engage the 2 step ..put the throttle on the wood..see last yellow and let her rip. If you can hook it expect a violent launch(like someone punched you in the chest) and you will find the weak links in your drivetrain..lol. Good luck man.
Are you still running a 2 bolt main block?
Props to trying to hide your weight reduction. Shaved carpets LOL, that kicks ***! I bet it saved atleast 30 lbs. I would not object to replacing the front seats with light weight ones, it's just hard to have to cough up almost $1,000 for it. I could probably get a kirkey alu. seat for track days and just pull the factory seats out.
I can't believe that you sill have a "bog" with a 1.4 60'. You have 4.70 gears right? I saw it in your video, the nose drops a little just befor the first gear change, and again at the gear change. Hopefully a higher launch RPM will give it that little bit it needs to keep the front end up. A3/4 guys have it too easy
.
On my 11.3 in the video the car boged bad. You can count almost a full second from the clutch drop till the engine comes back into the power band. I was launching at 6,500 in that pass, but when the clutch came up I didn't go WOT untill a second into it. I am sure you know what this is like, but for the guys who don't know, I only have to hold the gas about 1/2 way down to get to 6,500 RPM. So when I am letting the clutch up it's not WOT, this is amplified by the ST because it does not slip at all (yet) and the fact that you are getting thrown up and back in the seat adds to the issue. So there is no chance for it to really leave on the "up swing" so to speak. I tried that and shattered the ring and pinion in the 12 bolt like a stack of dishes (that's what it sounded like in the car
) I am anticipating good things from the 2 step, I know it won't be a cure all, but the ability to leave under power will be awsome. I am going to try out the LCA brackets for sure also.
Thanks for the tips and info on your car, it helps a lot when cool guys talk to you from the land of "been there and done that".
I can't believe that you sill have a "bog" with a 1.4 60'. You have 4.70 gears right? I saw it in your video, the nose drops a little just befor the first gear change, and again at the gear change. Hopefully a higher launch RPM will give it that little bit it needs to keep the front end up. A3/4 guys have it too easy
. On my 11.3 in the video the car boged bad. You can count almost a full second from the clutch drop till the engine comes back into the power band. I was launching at 6,500 in that pass, but when the clutch came up I didn't go WOT untill a second into it. I am sure you know what this is like, but for the guys who don't know, I only have to hold the gas about 1/2 way down to get to 6,500 RPM. So when I am letting the clutch up it's not WOT, this is amplified by the ST because it does not slip at all (yet) and the fact that you are getting thrown up and back in the seat adds to the issue. So there is no chance for it to really leave on the "up swing" so to speak. I tried that and shattered the ring and pinion in the 12 bolt like a stack of dishes (that's what it sounded like in the car
) I am anticipating good things from the 2 step, I know it won't be a cure all, but the ability to leave under power will be awsome. I am going to try out the LCA brackets for sure also. Thanks for the tips and info on your car, it helps a lot when cool guys talk to you from the land of "been there and done that".

Last edited by 95Bird; Nov 27, 2006 at 09:19 PM.
Oh I am all about that way of thinking.
I agree on just about everything 'cept the poor milage, but much of the stems from living an hour away from work and wanting a DD thatr doesn't cost me over $80 a week in gas to drive.
I actually have read all about your build up. Mostly do to the fact that I will need some heads to make my desired power level, and times. I want a split personality car. One with respectable power, good road manners, and all the creature comforts on the street but once I get to the track I can bolt on the slicks and open the bottle up and run some respectable times. Nothing with your amount of NA power thats for sure!! Now if I can only get Stroker to return my email!! j/k
I wanted to tell you thank you for providing the board with some good information, it certainly helps us all out.
I agree on just about everything 'cept the poor milage, but much of the stems from living an hour away from work and wanting a DD thatr doesn't cost me over $80 a week in gas to drive.
I actually have read all about your build up. Mostly do to the fact that I will need some heads to make my desired power level, and times. I want a split personality car. One with respectable power, good road manners, and all the creature comforts on the street but once I get to the track I can bolt on the slicks and open the bottle up and run some respectable times. Nothing with your amount of NA power thats for sure!! Now if I can only get Stroker to return my email!! j/k

I wanted to tell you thank you for providing the board with some good information, it certainly helps us all out.
hey guys, I have a similar set-up but with a 396. I made 470rwhp using a 04 Z06 maf sensor wired in to my lt1 harness. It's not hard at all the adaptor is available from GM. I ran 10.50 @ 129 with a th400, 9" 3.89 gears and M/T drag radials at Baton Rouge Capital Raceway. Gani
Nothing really. I destroyed 2 more ring gears (friday night, and saturday morning) and 1 drive shaft on opening weekend at the track. That 2 step is vicious. Unfortunately, and I know this may be obvious to some of you, I found out the hard way that the standard richmond gear is the wrong choice for a car with a 2 step, slicks, a manual, and a ton of ***.
As it turns out there is such a thing as a "Pro gear". These have a higher nickel content, and are 'softer' than the standard gear sets. Thus, they are less prone to cracking/ shattering. Unfortunately they are 2X more expensive than a standard set (of which I have 4... 3 broken and 1 new), and if you street drive on them they will wear out. I am going to order a new AL DS from denny's tomarow morning, so I will get the ball rolling on that. I already bought a replacement set of standard richmond gears for the street posi, but I have not bought a set of Pro gears for the spool yet. At this point I would like to drive the car the rest of the summer and go for 10's (meaning try to break the car again) in the late fall. If all goes well the trans will shatter into a million pieces
. I was so exited to race the car the frist chance I got, and then disaster. No car all summer, but that's the game. Nothing is going to last forever, especially dumping the clutch at 5,800 off the 2 step with my foot bolted to the floor. It sounded really cool though.
I am doing my own PCM tuning these days. I have learned a lot over the winter and this part of the year. I am expecting a major improvement in the fuel mileage, and overall street performance. Can this bad boy hit 20 MPG....mmmm it's a posibility
. I don't like to talk about things I have not done, or get into the "it can, or it should" buisness, but according to my logs and data from last year there is plenty of room for improvement. I will keep you guys posted as soon as something develops.
P.S. I did get my hands on a 01 SOM SS 6-speed car. I built it for a friend a couple of years ago (hot cam, LT's, 100 shot, PRO 5.0, spec stg. III w/ AL FW). It's a sweet car and it runs mid 12's @ 115 N/A on street tires, it's a great driver. But, a far cry from the savagery that is the AI 355. I talked to AI about the LS car, and they do have some nice stuf for it too. I wonder if.........
As it turns out there is such a thing as a "Pro gear". These have a higher nickel content, and are 'softer' than the standard gear sets. Thus, they are less prone to cracking/ shattering. Unfortunately they are 2X more expensive than a standard set (of which I have 4... 3 broken and 1 new), and if you street drive on them they will wear out. I am going to order a new AL DS from denny's tomarow morning, so I will get the ball rolling on that. I already bought a replacement set of standard richmond gears for the street posi, but I have not bought a set of Pro gears for the spool yet. At this point I would like to drive the car the rest of the summer and go for 10's (meaning try to break the car again) in the late fall. If all goes well the trans will shatter into a million pieces
. I was so exited to race the car the frist chance I got, and then disaster. No car all summer, but that's the game. Nothing is going to last forever, especially dumping the clutch at 5,800 off the 2 step with my foot bolted to the floor. It sounded really cool though.I am doing my own PCM tuning these days. I have learned a lot over the winter and this part of the year. I am expecting a major improvement in the fuel mileage, and overall street performance. Can this bad boy hit 20 MPG....mmmm it's a posibility
. I don't like to talk about things I have not done, or get into the "it can, or it should" buisness, but according to my logs and data from last year there is plenty of room for improvement. I will keep you guys posted as soon as something develops.P.S. I did get my hands on a 01 SOM SS 6-speed car. I built it for a friend a couple of years ago (hot cam, LT's, 100 shot, PRO 5.0, spec stg. III w/ AL FW). It's a sweet car and it runs mid 12's @ 115 N/A on street tires, it's a great driver. But, a far cry from the savagery that is the AI 355. I talked to AI about the LS car, and they do have some nice stuf for it too. I wonder if.........
You need to take some clutch out of that car, that is your problem.
Get with Taner and 95Bird on here Taner has a low 9 second six peed car and 95Bird has a low 10 second six speed car, both on slicks.
They are not having these problems, you need a clutch that will slip more. I done been down that road with a 5.0 Mustang. Also that aluminum driveshaft aint gonna live either, get a Denny's "Nitrous Ready" shaft, a steel one.
You DO have a 12 bolt in this car...right?
May take a 9 inch, the shock load is moving the pinion away from the ring gear and popping teeth. 9 inch will solve this problem.
David
Get with Taner and 95Bird on here Taner has a low 9 second six peed car and 95Bird has a low 10 second six speed car, both on slicks.
They are not having these problems, you need a clutch that will slip more. I done been down that road with a 5.0 Mustang. Also that aluminum driveshaft aint gonna live either, get a Denny's "Nitrous Ready" shaft, a steel one.
You DO have a 12 bolt in this car...right?
May take a 9 inch, the shock load is moving the pinion away from the ring gear and popping teeth. 9 inch will solve this problem.
David
Last edited by FASTFATBOY; Aug 2, 2007 at 09:28 PM.
Never broke 3 12 bolt gear sets though. But I'll tell you, don't give up and it will all pay off one day. Just continue to upgrade everything you break and eventually you will weed out the weak links.


