AI 200cc H/C 1/4 mile, dyno, & build VIDEO!
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Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,582
From: Louisiana, USA
And it's not like Tim (95 bird) can drive a 6 spd that good either, The car could probably run 10.00's with me driving! LOL Let's see bump the 2 step up to 6,800 and dump the clutch then start grabbing gears. When can I make a lap Tim?
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Joined: Jan 1999
Posts: 989
From: Baton Rouge, la
dang clint...I can't be that bad..lol http://95formula.ls2.com/Video/Th1072.wmv
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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 9,507
From: Okemos, MI
dang clint...I can't be that bad..lol http://95formula.ls2.com/Video/Th1072.wmv
What clutch, flywheel, and shifter are you using? And is your tranny stock?
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From: Okemos, MI
Retired
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 3,166
From: Inside Uranus
dang clint...I can't be that bad..lol http://95formula.ls2.com/Video/Th1072.wmv
Here's my little vids in my old Vette when it was a stock 346, stock Darts/FMS Hyd Roller making 471/416 with Derrick's big 260 lbs *** in it being the camera man.
http://kraest.com/vette/2ndgear.mov
http://kraest.com/vette/3rdgear.mov
And here's the bolt-on 5.0 Mustang that I broke the stock crank in 3 pieces with from shifting too hard:
http://kraest.com/powershift.mpg
Thread Starter
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Joined: Dec 1998
Posts: 455
From: Cleveland, Ohio
95 Bird: I wanted to know:
1) What size tire you run.
2) Race weight with driver & aproximate fuel load.
3) Do you have LCA relocation brackets, and you opinion for why or why not.
4) Have you ever broken the aluminum DS.
5) Is the tranny built up, if so, how much was changed.
6) What is your launch RPM.
amean94ta: I have hoosier drag 28" x 11"
I had to run a wheel spacer in the back, but that was so the rim would clear the brake caliper. The tires are a little too big. They rubed thin spots in the plastic in the bottom most part of the rear facia. Like a 2x2" or 3x3" spot. They must only rub at higher speeds when the tire starts growing, because there is a finger width space when it's parked. I used to have 26" hoosiers, but the local track guys talked me into 28" because they said the bigger side wall would help absorb more of the shock on launch. It made sense at the time I was told and I did get better 60's over the 26's.
Kraest: Sweet vette. The mustang vid was bad ****, lol. I wish I had a mustang like that one, for the same reason you had it
and hopefully the same end result.
1) What size tire you run.
2) Race weight with driver & aproximate fuel load.
3) Do you have LCA relocation brackets, and you opinion for why or why not.
4) Have you ever broken the aluminum DS.
5) Is the tranny built up, if so, how much was changed.
6) What is your launch RPM.
amean94ta: I have hoosier drag 28" x 11"
I had to run a wheel spacer in the back, but that was so the rim would clear the brake caliper. The tires are a little too big. They rubed thin spots in the plastic in the bottom most part of the rear facia. Like a 2x2" or 3x3" spot. They must only rub at higher speeds when the tire starts growing, because there is a finger width space when it's parked. I used to have 26" hoosiers, but the local track guys talked me into 28" because they said the bigger side wall would help absorb more of the shock on launch. It made sense at the time I was told and I did get better 60's over the 26's.
Kraest: Sweet vette. The mustang vid was bad ****, lol. I wish I had a mustang like that one, for the same reason you had it
and hopefully the same end result.
Last edited by 526 SS 96; Nov 23, 2006 at 12:04 PM.
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Joined: Jan 1999
Posts: 989
From: Baton Rouge, la
Kraest..needs work..keep practicing.
I'm running a M/T 28x10.5W right now. I've run just about all of em(slicks) and found that these are good for about .05 in the 60 over the non W tire
Race weight was around 3320 for my 10.3/10.4 runs.
I use not to run LCA relocation brackets but that was only because I ran the Pete Z setup. that setup is coming off the car and relocation brackets and Madmans full suspension setup is going on the car. But before the Pete Z bars went on when I added relocaton brackets they made a huge difference in launching the car. If you don't have them get em. To put it simple its the LCA angle and when you launch the car its the difference between the body weight transfer pushing up or planting(relocation brackets) the rear end.
Yep, broke the 1LE DS along time ago. It let go at the 1/8th mile mark and shot out the side and I ran over it...got lucky it didn't cut down a slick. I Got a 3" Alum that is on cars pushing 1200 hp and it hasn't skipped a beat since.
Tranny has been pro shifted. Everything else is stock. No heat treating..no viper output shaft etc.
Launch rpm was about 6000 bumping the 2 step and it needed more. On the 10.39 run it still bogged to a 1.42 60'. I'm planning o leaving on the wood with the 6600 pill in the 2 step and see what happens. I'm hoping for mid 1.35 60's with Madmans setup.
95 Bird: I wanted to know:
1) What size tire you run.
2) Race weight with driver & aproximate fuel load.
3) Do you have LCA relocation brackets, and you opinion for why or why not.
4) Have you ever broken the aluminum DS.
5) Is the tranny built up, if so, how much was changed.
6) What is your launch RPM.
1) What size tire you run.
2) Race weight with driver & aproximate fuel load.
3) Do you have LCA relocation brackets, and you opinion for why or why not.
4) Have you ever broken the aluminum DS.
5) Is the tranny built up, if so, how much was changed.
6) What is your launch RPM.
Race weight was around 3320 for my 10.3/10.4 runs.
I use not to run LCA relocation brackets but that was only because I ran the Pete Z setup. that setup is coming off the car and relocation brackets and Madmans full suspension setup is going on the car. But before the Pete Z bars went on when I added relocaton brackets they made a huge difference in launching the car. If you don't have them get em. To put it simple its the LCA angle and when you launch the car its the difference between the body weight transfer pushing up or planting(relocation brackets) the rear end.
Yep, broke the 1LE DS along time ago. It let go at the 1/8th mile mark and shot out the side and I ran over it...got lucky it didn't cut down a slick. I Got a 3" Alum that is on cars pushing 1200 hp and it hasn't skipped a beat since.
Tranny has been pro shifted. Everything else is stock. No heat treating..no viper output shaft etc.
Launch rpm was about 6000 bumping the 2 step and it needed more. On the 10.39 run it still bogged to a 1.42 60'. I'm planning o leaving on the wood with the 6600 pill in the 2 step and see what happens. I'm hoping for mid 1.35 60's with Madmans setup.
Last edited by 95Bird; Nov 23, 2006 at 11:11 PM.
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Joined: Jan 1999
Posts: 989
From: Baton Rouge, la
Thanks. I run a Ram 910, Spec billet steel flywheel and a pro 5.0 shifter(no shortstick) Trans is proshifted as stated above. I honestly think I was faster between the gears with the syncros but they kept crapin out on me so I had it pro shifted.
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Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 1,214
From: Gretna, LA
Thread Starter
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Joined: Dec 1998
Posts: 455
From: Cleveland, Ohio
Sweet thanks for the info.
I also broke a LS1 aluminum shaft long ago on my hot cam and nitrous set up. I like light weight DS's, but I didn't want any more reliability problems. I guess I can switch to the aluminum shaft. Where did you get yours?
I have a set of LCA brackets (not installed), but I heard they don't really help. I ran short on time before the track, so I didn't get a chance to put em on. Guess there is only one way to find out.
I want to be able to tune the "bog" out of the set up. I think I could easily scrub 1/2 a sec. in the 1/4. I think a 2 step and a couple of passes would be a major improvement compared to how I am doing it now. So that's definately on the winter to do list.
What did you take out to be 3320? I wouldn't mind taking my interior out temporarily for a weekend race event, but there is no way I would want to cruze it like that. My car is kinda heavy. A side from the bolt in suspension stuff and the 355 and all the little parts that make it work, it's stock. I know that sounds kind of funny but I never took any thing out of the car (except the obvious: spare tire kit, cat's when I did lt's and so on).
Lastly, what does it mean to have a tranny "pro shifted"? I have carbon kevlar syncros in my t56. It shifts way better after the rebuild than it ever did stock. Did you also have bad luck with these? Am I just waiting to replace them?
Derrick Redd & Kraest: You guys are funny. LOL
I also broke a LS1 aluminum shaft long ago on my hot cam and nitrous set up. I like light weight DS's, but I didn't want any more reliability problems. I guess I can switch to the aluminum shaft. Where did you get yours?
I have a set of LCA brackets (not installed), but I heard they don't really help. I ran short on time before the track, so I didn't get a chance to put em on. Guess there is only one way to find out.
I want to be able to tune the "bog" out of the set up. I think I could easily scrub 1/2 a sec. in the 1/4. I think a 2 step and a couple of passes would be a major improvement compared to how I am doing it now. So that's definately on the winter to do list.
What did you take out to be 3320? I wouldn't mind taking my interior out temporarily for a weekend race event, but there is no way I would want to cruze it like that. My car is kinda heavy. A side from the bolt in suspension stuff and the 355 and all the little parts that make it work, it's stock. I know that sounds kind of funny but I never took any thing out of the car (except the obvious: spare tire kit, cat's when I did lt's and so on).
Lastly, what does it mean to have a tranny "pro shifted"? I have carbon kevlar syncros in my t56. It shifts way better after the rebuild than it ever did stock. Did you also have bad luck with these? Am I just waiting to replace them?
Derrick Redd & Kraest: You guys are funny. LOL
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Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 870
From: Cuyahoga Falls, OHIO
...
You've done a good job with the car. I hope to see it in action at the track next year. My car is going back together right now, similar setup but the main difference is I have an A4 with a 4500 stall converter. Hopefully I'll have some dyno numbers within a month.
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Joined: Jan 1999
Posts: 989
From: Baton Rouge, la
the name of the company for the DS slips my mind right now. It was a looong time ago. They were recomended to me by madman as they had been holding up behind their 8-9 sec. cars at the time.
I find it funny that you heard that. Everyone I know that went too em saw an improvement. Give em a shot..I think they will help ya.
A 2 step and some suspension tuning should help you out a good bit. Its hard to get the bog out of these cars. Even on my 1.4 runs the car bogs.
My interior is all still there. I tried to make the car look like it was still all there. I even still had my stock seats(finally replacing them now). I took out the carpet backing, front bumper support(kept rear for the jacklegs on the road but figured I could keep from running into the back of someone), front swaybar, back seat(never used it and actually had more room without it) along with the other things you mentoned when i was more of a street car. it slowely turned after that with ac deletion, rear bumper support, alternator relocation to get rid of that big bracket, heater core, etc, etc, etc. Even after all that if you looked inside the car you would think it was stock except for the role bar. Of course the big/littles are a huge improvement over the 17s but you know that. At 3320 it was still heavy compaired to alot of the f-bodys out there running good ets.
I sent the tranny main shaft to liberty trans and they removed the syncros/blocker rings and weld a gear onto your existing gear. It basically becomes a non syncrod tranny. It takes some getting use to on the street but you have to drive it like the old school stuff with rev matching on downshifts etc. On the track...its awesome. You can do a lookup on here and ls1tech and find out all about the pro shifted stuff. I never tried the kevlar stuff. I hear people these days are having good luck with them though. But I feel with any syncro its just a matter of time if you drive it like it needs to be driven before your pulling it out and rebuilding.
I find it funny that you heard that. Everyone I know that went too em saw an improvement. Give em a shot..I think they will help ya.
A 2 step and some suspension tuning should help you out a good bit. Its hard to get the bog out of these cars. Even on my 1.4 runs the car bogs.
My interior is all still there. I tried to make the car look like it was still all there. I even still had my stock seats(finally replacing them now). I took out the carpet backing, front bumper support(kept rear for the jacklegs on the road but figured I could keep from running into the back of someone), front swaybar, back seat(never used it and actually had more room without it) along with the other things you mentoned when i was more of a street car. it slowely turned after that with ac deletion, rear bumper support, alternator relocation to get rid of that big bracket, heater core, etc, etc, etc. Even after all that if you looked inside the car you would think it was stock except for the role bar. Of course the big/littles are a huge improvement over the 17s but you know that. At 3320 it was still heavy compaired to alot of the f-bodys out there running good ets.
I sent the tranny main shaft to liberty trans and they removed the syncros/blocker rings and weld a gear onto your existing gear. It basically becomes a non syncrod tranny. It takes some getting use to on the street but you have to drive it like the old school stuff with rev matching on downshifts etc. On the track...its awesome. You can do a lookup on here and ls1tech and find out all about the pro shifted stuff. I never tried the kevlar stuff. I hear people these days are having good luck with them though. But I feel with any syncro its just a matter of time if you drive it like it needs to be driven before your pulling it out and rebuilding.
Sweet thanks for the info.
I also broke a LS1 aluminum shaft long ago on my hot cam and nitrous set up. I like light weight DS's, but I didn't want any more reliability problems. I guess I can switch to the aluminum shaft. Where did you get yours?
I have a set of LCA brackets (not installed), but I heard they don't really help. I ran short on time before the track, so I didn't get a chance to put em on. Guess there is only one way to find out.
I want to be able to tune the "bog" out of the set up. I think I could easily scrub 1/2 a sec. in the 1/4. I think a 2 step and a couple of passes would be a major improvement compared to how I am doing it now. So that's definately on the winter to do list.
What did you take out to be 3320? I wouldn't mind taking my interior out temporarily for a weekend race event, but there is no way I would want to cruze it like that. My car is kinda heavy. A side from the bolt in suspension stuff and the 355 and all the little parts that make it work, it's stock. I know that sounds kind of funny but I never took any thing out of the car (except the obvious: spare tire kit, cat's when I did lt's and so on).
Lastly, what does it mean to have a tranny "pro shifted"? I have carbon kevlar syncros in my t56. It shifts way better after the rebuild than it ever did stock. Did you also have bad luck with these? Am I just waiting to replace them?
Derrick Redd & Kraest: You guys are funny. LOL
I also broke a LS1 aluminum shaft long ago on my hot cam and nitrous set up. I like light weight DS's, but I didn't want any more reliability problems. I guess I can switch to the aluminum shaft. Where did you get yours?
I have a set of LCA brackets (not installed), but I heard they don't really help. I ran short on time before the track, so I didn't get a chance to put em on. Guess there is only one way to find out.
I want to be able to tune the "bog" out of the set up. I think I could easily scrub 1/2 a sec. in the 1/4. I think a 2 step and a couple of passes would be a major improvement compared to how I am doing it now. So that's definately on the winter to do list.
What did you take out to be 3320? I wouldn't mind taking my interior out temporarily for a weekend race event, but there is no way I would want to cruze it like that. My car is kinda heavy. A side from the bolt in suspension stuff and the 355 and all the little parts that make it work, it's stock. I know that sounds kind of funny but I never took any thing out of the car (except the obvious: spare tire kit, cat's when I did lt's and so on).
Lastly, what does it mean to have a tranny "pro shifted"? I have carbon kevlar syncros in my t56. It shifts way better after the rebuild than it ever did stock. Did you also have bad luck with these? Am I just waiting to replace them?
Derrick Redd & Kraest: You guys are funny. LOL
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Dec 1998
Posts: 455
From: Cleveland, Ohio
Props to trying to hide your weight reduction. Shaved carpets LOL, that kicks ***! I bet it saved atleast 30 lbs. I would not object to replacing the front seats with light weight ones, it's just hard to have to cough up almost $1,000 for it. I could probably get a kirkey alu. seat for track days and just pull the factory seats out.
I can't believe that you sill have a "bog" with a 1.4 60'. You have 4.70 gears right? I saw it in your video, the nose drops a little just befor the first gear change, and again at the gear change. Hopefully a higher launch RPM will give it that little bit it needs to keep the front end up. A3/4 guys have it too easy
.
On my 11.3 in the video the car boged bad. You can count almost a full second from the clutch drop till the engine comes back into the power band. I was launching at 6,500 in that pass, but when the clutch came up I didn't go WOT untill a second into it. I am sure you know what this is like, but for the guys who don't know, I only have to hold the gas about 1/2 way down to get to 6,500 RPM. So when I am letting the clutch up it's not WOT, this is amplified by the ST because it does not slip at all (yet) and the fact that you are getting thrown up and back in the seat adds to the issue. So there is no chance for it to really leave on the "up swing" so to speak. I tried that and shattered the ring and pinion in the 12 bolt like a stack of dishes (that's what it sounded like in the car
) I am anticipating good things from the 2 step, I know it won't be a cure all, but the ability to leave under power will be awsome. I am going to try out the LCA brackets for sure also.
Thanks for the tips and info on your car, it helps a lot when cool guys talk to you from the land of "been there and done that".
I can't believe that you sill have a "bog" with a 1.4 60'. You have 4.70 gears right? I saw it in your video, the nose drops a little just befor the first gear change, and again at the gear change. Hopefully a higher launch RPM will give it that little bit it needs to keep the front end up. A3/4 guys have it too easy
. On my 11.3 in the video the car boged bad. You can count almost a full second from the clutch drop till the engine comes back into the power band. I was launching at 6,500 in that pass, but when the clutch came up I didn't go WOT untill a second into it. I am sure you know what this is like, but for the guys who don't know, I only have to hold the gas about 1/2 way down to get to 6,500 RPM. So when I am letting the clutch up it's not WOT, this is amplified by the ST because it does not slip at all (yet) and the fact that you are getting thrown up and back in the seat adds to the issue. So there is no chance for it to really leave on the "up swing" so to speak. I tried that and shattered the ring and pinion in the 12 bolt like a stack of dishes (that's what it sounded like in the car
) I am anticipating good things from the 2 step, I know it won't be a cure all, but the ability to leave under power will be awsome. I am going to try out the LCA brackets for sure also. Thanks for the tips and info on your car, it helps a lot when cool guys talk to you from the land of "been there and done that".