LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Advise for M6 removal???

Old May 6, 2003 | 08:14 AM
  #1  
Mitch96TA's Avatar
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From: Salt Lake City
Advise for M6 removal???

I'm getting ready to drop the transmission (m6). Can anyone give me any hints on how to do this...easily?

How high do I need to get the car up off the ground? How do I get up high enough? How much does the tranny weigh? Can myself and a buddy just werstle it out or do I need a jack?

Any advise would be appreciated.

Thanks!
Old May 6, 2003 | 09:52 AM
  #2  
All_Z_Way's Avatar
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From: Paris, Texas
Here are some helpful guides.

Also.. You really only have to have the car high enough to work under. Which is actually fairly high.

I don't know what the tranny weighs, but it is very heavy. You will need a jack to help get it out and back in. Even with a jack it will probably take to people to help stab the tranny.

Biggest piece of advise..... Before you ever pull the tranmission or bell housing.... MAKE sure and pull the clutch fork down and release it from the pressure plate.

I spent a good bit of time on this cause the tranny will not come out until the fork is released and once you move the tranny, you can not release the fork.

It is not that hard of a job, but a couple of the bolts up on top are a PITA. You need really long extensions to reach them from the rear of the tranny.

http://www.bfranker.badz28.com/fbody/t56.htm

http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/S...63/clutch.html

http://www.zmydust.com/lt1clutch.html
Old May 6, 2003 | 09:57 AM
  #3  
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From: Hell was full so they sent me to NJ
The T56 alone, with fluid, no shifter weighs 120#. A tranny scissors jack helps, but isn't mandatory.

Frequently asked questions indicate that some people forget to pull the clutch fork off the T/O bearing, and the tranny won't pull out. (See previous post )

I found that the best way to access the top bolts was to work from inside the car, through the shifter cut-out, with a 30" extension and a flex joint on the end of it. You just need someone under the car to guide the socket onto the top bolts. If you have a hard time reaching them, put a wood block under the front of the engine and jack it gently to push the tailshaft of the tranny down, and the bellhousing away from the sheetmetal.

If you don't drain it, when you tilt the back end down, fluid will pour out. Plug up the tailshaft opening and tape it before you start to remove the tranny.

Last edited by Injuneer; May 6, 2003 at 09:59 AM.
Old May 6, 2003 | 11:26 AM
  #4  
1997rblckSS's Avatar
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Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 248
From: Franklin, TN
hmm, I dropped my transmission twice in a one year time span, don't know how strong you are, but I would drain the fluid, it gives you an excuse to change the fluid out and get new fluid in it(just a little peace of mind). I would recommend getting 2 dowell pins and tapping them to the thread size of the transmission bolts, atleast 5 inches long is what I recommend.. make sure they are tapped to the correct thread size!. What I did is drain the transmission, pull 2 nuts off from each side of the tranny, (of coarse remove the clutch fork, learned that the first time around ) screw the dowell pins in the 2 vacant bolt holes on each side of the Trans (one on the left one on the right) then I removed the the rest of the bolts around the transmission, there should be enough room to get to every bolt underneath the car with the proper extensions and a universal socket, I haven't thought of doing what Injuneer advised, but that sounds a little bit easier for those darn bolts on top. Once all the bolts are removed, no need to worry, your transmission is being supported by the dowel pins that you screwed in, , then I just slide the transmission down the dowel pins and lay it on the ground..simple.
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