Finally got a chance to relash my RR's from when I installed the motor 2 yrs ago and I couldn't be more pleased from the results..Before I used the #1 piston at TDC then go through the firing order turning the crank 90 degrees everytime, adjusting both valves..This time I decided to try the "motor running" method which worked very well...The RR's are ALOT looser compared to before but the car pulls like a raped ape..Also, I can hear the RR's now opposed to before but I can deal with that..

Only tools I needed were a 5/8" wrench, Allen Socket for the set screw, Long Screwdriver to use as a stethoscope..

If you use a long phillips head screwdriver up to your ear and insert it into the middle of the set screw you can tell if that rocker is tapping or not..I would loosen the nut as I listened for the "clacking" sound, then I would tighten until it was all gone. Sometimes with all other misc. noises its hard to hear if the RR your setting is clacking so the screwdriver helped alot..

I went out ealier and brought it up to around 3k rpm in 2nd gear and hammered it, resulting in my car smoking the tires. I couldnt hook in 2nd at any rpm or mph even with these Nittos
Now, I just need to setup a dyno tuning session!

Cody

 

Its about time you did that, I've been telling people that this is the only way for some time now.

 

I would like to reset my rockers as well to see if i'm getting the full potential out of them. Just wish I had someone who lived close by to help teach and show me how to do it.

 

So did you just let yourself get sprayed by oil or what? I'm thinking about trying it this way.

 

I tried it once, and it really didn't spray as much as I thought. it did get some on the manifold and create a pretty good burning smell.

 

Lol, he got more power from loosening them up, not because he adjusted it with the engine running.

 

Agreed.

I'm happy for you, but sounds like they just weren't adjusted well the first time.

Both methods can get the best results out of your motor, it's just a little easier for some people to use the car running method, and for others it's without it running. I prefer without running, that way I know exactly how much preload I've placed on the lifter.

Dan

 

You should not put anything in your ear smaller than your elbow.

BTW, you can buy an auto stethoscope for a couple of bucks.

 

i need a link to the website that makes the opti replacement things.....what is the word on these things....are they worth the money or not?

 

Did you guys w/ comp R's use the same method I did? As soon as the "clacking" went away I tightened the nut down..Can you guys hear alot of rocker noise like I am as you increase rpm's..I want the most power but I also want it to be dependable(ie. not being too loose and causing damage)

 

Yes, however the only other way to adjust the rockers is to do each lobe separately, with big cams and close lobe seps, doing the 90* thing isn't right, you will not know exactly how closed/open the lobe is while you are adjusting.

The beauty of adjusting while running is because unlike other ways, you get it 100% right because you are doing it with a live cam and you know when you hit 0 lash real easy instead of doing it the long 1 lobe at a time.

The one thing that is even better about doing it with the engine running is due to temperature difference you can never get 0 lash doing it with the car off, it needs to be up to full temp where the heads move away from the engine and everything is where it should be, then you set 0 lash, otherwise setting 0 lash on a cold engine would mean that once warmed up, it will be too loose.

And that my friends why IT IS the only way!

BTW, the way I did it, is wait for full temp, then loosen one rocker until it clacks, then back out the set screw and with your fingers tighen the nut, you don't need to hear it at all, you feel 0 lash, when you tighten it with you fingers it will be easy and then it will stop, that is 0 lash, at that point you will notice all noise goes away, if you realy try you can keep turning it more but that will be past 0 lash, just stop when the nut stops with little force, this is because now you have taken off all the slack, (KEY IS FULL OPERATING TEMP WHEN YOU DO THIS) then you can tighten the set screw and give her 1/16th of a turn, or as I did, back the nut off 1/16th of a turn, tighten the set screw and then turn the whole nut 1/16 of a turn more. You will have exact 0 lash and relatively quiet valve train because you took up all clearance doing it this way.

 

You could just go solid roller and be done with this non-sense

 

I used Bunker's method also...I would loosen until I hear clackin', then turn by hand until its stops, then tighten set screw..Only reason it sprays oil is if you loosen the rocker too much and oil gets "pinched" bewteen the pushrod and the rocker..besides that, no oil should get anywhere...I had to redo 2-3 rockers today due to them clackin just a little...I'm still loving the way this car pulls now though
Dyno Tune coming shortly

Cody

 

I didn't see anyone mention it yet...
If you loosen them up it shifts your powerband down a couple hundred RPM. If you tighten them down it shifts it up about the same.
I like to go 1/4 turn past (tighter then ) the point where the clacking quiets down a whole bunch.