Is this actually the fuel pump?
I have been told by a mechanic that the fuel pump is the problem and needs to be replaced.
I am not mechanically capable myself, so this is where I need your expetise:
Over the last two years, the Camaro went from a slight hesitation at high rpm, to gradually having trouble starting, to taking longer and longer to start.
Once it does finally start, it *sometimes* would run rough at low idle for a few minutes (and even on occasion stalling out) but that would go away. But still have some hesitation at higher rpm. Thing is, it would still run FINE once warmed up and not under hard driving.
Now it takes a very long time to start.
I was told that he pulled a code that said 'running lean' or something to that effect. Is it possible that it could be something ...cheaper, more simple than that?
Any info would be welcome.
Thanks,
Jeff
I am not mechanically capable myself, so this is where I need your expetise:
Over the last two years, the Camaro went from a slight hesitation at high rpm, to gradually having trouble starting, to taking longer and longer to start.
Once it does finally start, it *sometimes* would run rough at low idle for a few minutes (and even on occasion stalling out) but that would go away. But still have some hesitation at higher rpm. Thing is, it would still run FINE once warmed up and not under hard driving.
Now it takes a very long time to start.
I was told that he pulled a code that said 'running lean' or something to that effect. Is it possible that it could be something ...cheaper, more simple than that?
Any info would be welcome.
Thanks,
Jeff
i had a problem like that a few years back. i was ready to cut open my trunk to get to my fuel pump when i decided to replace the opti first. when i was digging to get it out, i saw what that coil to opti wire was frayed through. i just replaced that wire and it fixed it perfectly. i had the same symptoms as you, it took a very long time to start, rough idle, but when it warmed up it ran just fine, and even started fine for about a hour after i drove it. So that wouldnt be a bad idea to check, and do what NJ-LE says too because replacing the fuel filter was never a bad idea. It would help to know fuel pressures if you suspect its the fuel pump. there are plenty of write ups on how to do that if u search for it.
Fuel fliter was changed not too long after the initial problems and that did not fix it. So I'd like to rule that out, but agreed that it is never a bad idea.
I may have to check on that wire....
Thanks.
I may have to check on that wire....
Thanks.
I'm terrified of going through the process of replacing the pump only to find that doesn't fix it. Because it runs fine AFTER it starts, I fail to see how that could be the fuel pump...?
Thanks.
To test the fuel pump for starting related problems, you need a fuel pressure gauge. You can pick one up at a parts store (maybe even a loaner) or at harbor freight.
Hook it up to the schrader valve at the rear of the exhaust manifold. Then turn your key to the on position.
You should get about 43psi.
If it is much lower or starts dropping rapidly, it is probably your pump. If you get about 43psi and it holds, it's probably not the pump.
No need to guess.
Hook it up to the schrader valve at the rear of the exhaust manifold. Then turn your key to the on position.
You should get about 43psi.
If it is much lower or starts dropping rapidly, it is probably your pump. If you get about 43psi and it holds, it's probably not the pump.
No need to guess.
You mean back of the intake manifold. Courtesy of Shoebox:
http://shbox.com/1/fp_reg.jpg
The "prime" test and watching how fast the pressure bleeds down may indicate a problem with the check valve in the fuel pump, if the pressure bleeds off very fast.
To fully test the fuel pressure, you need to check it at idle (41-47psi with the vacuum compensation line disconnected, drop 6-8psi when you reattach the vacuum line). Then tape the guage to the windsheild and take it up to max engine load/RPM. Pressure should hold at least 40psi under those conditions.
Fuel pressure problems can be related to the fuel pressure regulator. Pull the vacuum line off the regulator and check for liquid fuel - not supposed to be there.
http://shbox.com/1/fp_reg.jpg
The "prime" test and watching how fast the pressure bleeds down may indicate a problem with the check valve in the fuel pump, if the pressure bleeds off very fast.
To fully test the fuel pressure, you need to check it at idle (41-47psi with the vacuum compensation line disconnected, drop 6-8psi when you reattach the vacuum line). Then tape the guage to the windsheild and take it up to max engine load/RPM. Pressure should hold at least 40psi under those conditions.
Fuel pressure problems can be related to the fuel pressure regulator. Pull the vacuum line off the regulator and check for liquid fuel - not supposed to be there.
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