Haha didnt finish my sentance those are the things I would do as well as the tune. I feel the tune is very important. Might also clean the maf with maf cleaner. I am on a phone app and doesnt show a signature so dont know about your throttle body. Many people have issues with the aftermarket ones because they dont use the iac passages and just dump into the plenum and get split blm and starved cyllinders and things of that nature.


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Okay so I started it back up today and it fired right up 3 different times and idles and always went back to idle properly but popped a couple times but I just assumed that it was running to rich. Started a 4th time and I let it warm up a bit and then I decided to pull it out of the shop just to make sure the new tranny and rear end worked properly.......BAD MOVE!!!! It drove out of the shop fine and around the shop but once I got to the other side it started popping worse and then died. Can't get it to idle anymore so obviously I can't move it. Not sure what the problem is.

 

Okay found that #2 wire worked loose from the plug and i got it to start but it is still popping sometimes and that could be caused i suppose from running to rich but what do u think? Do you really think the tune is going to take that out of it? And just to add, once i got this thing outside man does that cam sound amazing!!!

 

If you run it long enough to get it to closed loop, then it may run better once it's adjusting the LTFT. However, I would wait until it's tuned for the 42# injectors, install them, and see how it does on the new tune. It takes getting warmed up to get it into closed loop. With the VE table way off during that time could wash down the cylinders of oil being so rich and you don't want that.

Any SES codes thrown?

Is it doing this? Or running much worse? Comment states no tune.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VijEEC30ejM

 

It pretty much sounds just like that video but every now and then mine pops a little. Nothing consistent but it will pop sometimes and mine will idle a touch higher than that one. I would like to check codes but I don't have a scanner. But I'm sure its throwing a bunch cuz this new rear end doesn't have abs plus I just put this th400 tranny in so that's not tuned yet plus it has had intermittent misfires because of the wires crossed and evap is deleted but not out of the ecu and lord only knows if these o2 sensors are still good as rich as its been. Haha

 

Honestly I would still suspect crossed and/or bad plugs/wires. Many times people are quick to blame the tune when it's usually something silly.

The fact that you crossed wires once is indicative that you may have some more crossed.

 

Im going to go ahead and get the tune. While im waiting on it i am going to change wires and o2 sensors just to have a fresh start with the tune and know the plug wires are in correct places. Plugs are new. Just installed them two days ago. This car hasnt had a screen on the maf since i owned it....would that cause a problem?

 

I have a 97ss. FI application. I tune my own PCM with LT1_edit v_2.2. Some things I found was a feature in the OBD_2 PCM that dials back Injector pulse width if the MAF frequency is exceeded. The stock cal number (about 10700) should be changed to maximum (about 45k). Also, I would not use PE vs. Temp cal curve. Zero out. Just use PE vs rpm. I have also zeroed out the knock sensor. I have reduced my back-fire by changing the advance curves lower @ high MAP values.

Now, I know many here say I am way off base, but, these things have worked for me. But, my app is FI. You don't have to do this, as, I am not in good graces of the population.

My experience with mail order tunes is not good. With your mods, it is difficult to tune with mail order. I think Ion is the best to deal with. I had bad experience with pcm_forless. I think, my expectaions to big for good results. As they say... "my bad" (I don't like using that term...sorry)

I think the 97 obd_2 pcm was designed so that we the people should not trick. Back then, gm did not like us much. Trust me, I worked there.
B

 

Okay, put my 42 lb injectors in today and my pcm showed up today as well and i installed it. Start the car and just like before i had to hold throttle to the floor for it to start and then it backfired a few times and then idled. It seemed to idle a little high at 1200 or so but i know that it can be off. Right when you hit the throttle it is sluggish but once its at rpm it seems fine but once you let off sometimes it will backfire a little and one time at idle it just randomly died. What do you think?

 

I still think something is wrong with the plugs and wires.

 

Is it still backfiring out the intake? If so, that would seem to me to be a problem with either timing or valve lash. The former brings into question opti indexing, cam shaft install(dots in the correct spots), opti in general, and plug wire location.

Valve lashing is something I prefer to do with the intake off. I prefer to see the location of the lifter relative to it's lift in the lifter bore. This way, I'm not fooled by where the lifter "really" is due to the plunger collapsing as a result of valve spring tension on an already adjusted valve.

I've only adjust lifters twice in my lifetime(both times on my LT1) and I got it right both times by doing it with the intake off. I used 1/2 turn preload and torqued the poly locks(the hex screw in the poly lock) to 30 lb-ft.

I followed these directions, but again I watched the lifters to determine when I was actually on the base lobe of the respective valve.....

http://www.compcams.com/Instructions/Files/151.pdf

I'm sure this can be done with the intake on, but I feel that you really have to know how much travel that a lifter can collapse. Once that rocker starts to move on an adjusted valve, you must account for that collapse on the way up or down depending on if you did the exhaust first or the intake first.

As another note, you always turn in the direction of engine travel(clockwise for LT1...standing in front of the harmonic balancer). Never, ever, ever, backup. This is due to slop in the time chain. If you go past your point turning the crank, then rotate it ~2 times to come back and try it again.

Here is where I asked about it years ago....
https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/lt1...e-read-624416/

 

Update car is fixed and i feel stupid. I just knew in my mind i know how to adjust valves and between that and the timing chain it was all right so i focused my energy on everything else. I decided to change plugs and wires again just to be sure and sure as **** when i finally pulled them out one by one and put the new ones in #6 and #8 were crossed. I found earlier #4 and #8 but apparently all 3 of them were and i just didnt catch it. Needless to say........car runs perfects, pulls like a beast and sounds about as bad as a hydraulic roller can. Thanks for all the input and helping me through this. This forum RULES!!!

 

Told ya so.

 

Always good to hear a problem was solved at low cost, even if it was due to oversight on something. Very cool!

 

Thanks AGAIN for your commitment to this site, and the excellent help you offer.

Persistance pays off!