I am not saying cast cranks are junk...but I have had them cause alot of damage because I was trying to save money.

As long as a person is realistic about the power they are going to make and actually stay there...you can use cheaper $$ parts.

But I have been around this long enough to know that people always want more...sooner or later.

 

In my experience 90% of the street SBCs max out in RPM below 7000 rpm, well within the cast cranks ability (N/A).
What I see fail are ringlands, rod bolts, and springs (or valvetrain related).

Now I don't advise KB pistons for most people, but I have no plans of FI or regular N2O use on my motor, I maight spray it just to see what it can do, but that would be about it.

No matter your crank choice go with a good name forged piston and rod. Along with the valvesprings.

 

250 oil pan from who? all i see are for 299 and up. also will she clear the 3.875 stroke??

 

http://www.advancedinduction.com/Abare.html Take a look at this page and you can get a good idea of what can be done with the right kind of parts and an LT1... no forced induction

 

To be fair though...though it may appear to be a good combination of parts...there are things on that car I can guess are on it without ever opening it up that most guys would never put on their car.

 

I do have forged rods. With stock ported heads on a 383 you peak around 6100 and falls off the table around 6700 so i have it to shift around 6400. Yes i was in school full time when i did my motor. Now im out and getting a better jjob so i may have something better when money is better. I wanted a car that would go 11s and behave on the street. I have it. i still get around 20mpg with auto and 3.42s Tq is just there.