Well i did mine for just under $4000 only thing that wasnt new was the catback and the tranny. headers injectors,dyno tune by ed wright. It can be done you just have to look around and figure out what you need. and the crap you dont need that alot of people on here think you need.

 

You did heads/cam/forged bottom end and all supporting components for under $4k?

Did you buy everything used?

 

Something doesn't add up unless that is a N2o car...

 

i already have abut $9,545 into my 383 stroker n iam not even done.like said b4 its not cheap.but its worth it in the end.

 

I fifth that.. almost finished with a 396 stroker and at the 12k mark in Parts and machining alone..?? Cheap? NO F ING WAY

 

I have a Full bolt on car right now. Soon to have a Stage 4 Spec clutch, and a 12 bolt.

 

i am just finishing up my 385 and doing all the labor except the machine work on the block i am over 6k with forged internals LE3 package ported intake and spec stage 4

 

I spent less than 2000$ on my complete shortblock, and in a full weight T/A it hits almost 120 mph in the 1/4.

Scat cast steel crank 212$
Scat 4340 rods 199$
KB pistons 200$
bearings 110$ (mains and rods clevite)
Gasket set 300$
GM 847 210$
used comp R lifters 100$
trickflow pushrods 89$
comp magnum steel rockers 150$
K-motion K-800 springs 88$
Bolts (headbolts and main studs) 100$
Windage screen 80$
AFR 190CC heads 1600$ (replace this with an LE 2 set-up or AI set-up)
32# SVO injectors 200$
Used AS&M 58mm t/b 150$ (holly and edelbrock sell a 58mm for just over 300$)
Headers (coated Hooker LTs) 600$
Mufflex Y-pipe 250$
Hooker cat-back 279$ (at the time)
Machinework 900$
tuning by mail then bought tuner-cat for fine tuning 400$ (coverted to OBD1)
3.73 rear gears used 100$
vigilantee 3000 converter 700$
255 lph fuel pump 127$
Car bought used 7000$

So including the price of my car and my mods I have 14,144 $ (probably a hundred here or there I have forgot).

Love the car, car is a blast to drive and with the 10:1 static compression and the GM 847 cam I can run on 87 octane (since tuning).

It also runs below 11.50s @ 119.8 mph on cool nights. (with M/Ts on back)

I couldnt be happier.

I also plan on building another low budget shortblock with more compression and cam here soon (to hit low low 11s and maybe a high 10).

 

I didnt say it was a forged bottom end, that is what im saying about crap you dont need. Every one seems to think you have to have a forged bottom. I have eagle cast crank with KB pistons Le2 heads i bought off someone that didnt have the money to finish ($900) and a gm847 cam double roller timeing chain, ordered the shortblock and did everything elese myself. I run pacesetter longtubes. I dont plan on spraying or FI but if i want i can spray 125 shot on it. It all adds up if you want to buy the parts and overbuild the bottom more power to you but this motor is only makeing 500 Hp (417 through a 4l60e) Say what you want about me lieing on how much i spent i just didnt do it the Camaroz28 way.

 

If you want to build a lower cost bottom end...power to you. You could possibly never have a problem with your bottom end parts (they are, don't get offended, but they are).

But if those parts let loose (which has a much better chance than more expensive, better parts) and it destroys your crank, rods, block, heads...I doubt I will see a post saying how much money you saved allowing you rebuild twice compared someone building a motor with better parts once.

I have ran cheap KB pistons...cheap rods...cheap cranks...I had good luck with them but I would never push the crap as a way of going fast.

Think about it...your building a motor and trying to save money because your funds are limited right? So if they motor goes south...now you spent X amount and still have to do it right.

I would rather buy good quality parts used and have them checked out before I would ever buy lower quality parts new.

 

I was not saying you lied. but just going off you sig and your post that something didn't add up...
your sig:So 417rwhp through an A4, I would have guessed a well built bottom end and high compression, even on a budget for just the parts you would have about 2 grand specifically since you said you bought new parts, and that's not counting machine work. So unless you work at a machine shop and did all that yourself, then you at a bare minimum should have about 2500-3K in the bottom end depending on machine work, and seeing HP #'s like that I would assume you balanced and spec'd everything. I just did a budget rebuild on my other car and it was about $2400 in basic machine work (no balancing, or extras) and parts, and I did all the assembly...

OK then on top of that you have $900 in heads, so you should be within 34-3900K right there not counting headers, injectors and dyno tuning you said you had done, plus the other suppoorting accessories which can put you well over a grand there. Like I said it just didn't add up to me, do you mind explaining?

Again not calling you a lier, I just wanted more details...

 

Well the short block i had done by RPM machine that was a sponsor here on z28. the shortblock oil pump and arp head bolts and double roller chain was 1650 shiped to my door. Headers were 350 the injectors were used lucus 42lbs i paid something like 185 for(not real sure) with the 900 heads, I understand that i said everything was new. The intake is a stock intake ported for a 58mm. CR is 10.5-1. Buiding the bottom end with forged internals are not going to net you any more power. If any thing they will take away power due to the weight of the components (minimal maybe) I had ion tune it and it made 386rwhp. after Ed tuned it, it made 417 with a 2800 stall.

I wont get offended (cantonracer) But what are the odds of this crank letting go at my power level? Not that great. Now i built a bottom end that would hold what i was going to push it too. But i under stand what your saying.

 

The cast cranks are rated by the manufacturer for 500 HP, they also fudge a tad so there is a margin.

From most of your guestimates I can afford to build two and sometimes 3 shortblocks, IF (and thats a big if) they failed as supposed.

Cast cranks are by no means worthless for performance.

 

That is a damn good price. Now I can see why you said it was below 4 grand total...

I am just s_itting myself that I spent more then that on a factory replacement rebuilt shortblock for my beater...

 

For just a factory replacement go to ebay....there is a company that dismantles roughly 75 new vehicles a week and stores everything to sell on ebay for loads more but i've seen like ls1's on there for 1800 with 170 miles.