new plugs,wires,opti...cap,etc.
idles cold or hot at about 5000....whats up w/ that ? any known cures ?

thanks
~Dave

 

i think your engines wanting you to go to the track :-D

 

dude...5000?!?!....is your foot on the gas?

 

would almost have to be lol man r u sure u arnt tryin to neutral drop or flashin stall or somethin crazy because damn thats quite high, i hope u arnt drivin it like that

 

LMAO.....

correction--->>>>> how about 500

 

whast wrong with 500, yea its a little low, but hell better than 5000

 

my friend actually had a problem with his car runnign at a low rpm also and also with dieing while driving sometimes, his was fuel pump, very easy to change out IF u do the hole in back thing, its actrually very easy to do it that way, saves LOTS of time and cuss words, i recommend u get a fuel pressure tester from advanced auto or auto zone and test the psi, and when u turn the car off it should hold the psi at that level when car is on or no more than 10 below it, thats my guess

 

too funny, yeah if it was idleing at 5000, id say the motor would probably be shot in a matter of hours. 500 aint that bad, 700 is the norm.

 

Stock programming for an A4, fully warmed up, is 550rpm in gear and 650rpm in neutral. There is a cold idle table:

A4:

COOLANT TEMP - IN GEAR - IN NEUTRAL

-40 ------- 800 ---- 1200
-19 ------- 800 ---- 1200
+3 -------- 800 ---- 1200
24 -------- 800 ---- 1000
46 -------- 800 ---- 950
68 -------- 800 ---- 900
89 -------- 800 ---- 900
111 ------- 800 ---- 900
132 ------- 750 ---- 850
154 ------- 650 ---- 750
176 ------- 550 ---- 650
>176 ----- 550 ---- 650

If the idle doesn't match properly, it may be a problem with the IAC valve, or plugged passages for the idle air flow. Check the IAC valve "counts" with a scanner, and see how it reponds.

 

that is very thorough I must say. Nice to see the real raw numbers.

 

Thanks guys.....I appreciate the input. Guess mine is about normel then...er umm , was..... posting a new topic w/ new problem.