LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

400ci+ LT1 (yea I know again)

Old May 12, 2007 | 02:22 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by my94blackz
Aight a recap, The brand of crank doesnt matter so I really want to run the Callies Magnum XL, Rods needs to be a oliver billet, Heads a worked AFR 227, and small circle base. Does the cam need to be crazy big or can I run a nice mild HYD roller?

A HR cam will complement this kind of setup just fine. But I would be getting a cam expert to figure out what you need. It is NOT going to be any off the shelf grind.

Rich
Old May 12, 2007 | 02:23 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by my94blackz
Aight a recap, The brand of crank doesnt matter so I really want to run the Callies Magnum XL, Rods needs to be a oliver billet, Heads a worked AFR 227, and small circle base. Does the cam need to be crazy big or can I run a nice mild HYD roller?
Depends on what you want out of the engine...nowadays the hydraulic rollers make good power...but if you want ALL the power out of the 400+ inch LT1....solid roller is the way.

If you are gonna do this, a Sheetmetal or Super Vic conversion are the only two ways to go.

David
Old May 12, 2007 | 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by rskrause
A HR cam will complement this kind of setup just fine. But I would be getting a cam expert to figure out what you need. It is NOT going to be any off the shelf grind.

Rich
So the 233/239 I have in the sig wouldnt be sufficent? I love to drive the car, and love to race it more, so it will be driven. Probably 12k a year with 30 passes a season. There will be nitrous on this engine at least a 200 shot. I dont this car to be a pain to drive nor kill valve springs, or anything of that nature.
Old May 12, 2007 | 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by FASTFATBOY
Depends on what you want out of the engine...nowadays the hydraulic rollers make good power...but if you want ALL the power out of the 400+ inch LT1....solid roller is the way.

If you are gonna do this, a Sheetmetal or Super Vic conversion are the only two ways to go.

David
We havent really touched on this yet, Will a heavily modded LTX manifold not work?
Old May 12, 2007 | 03:07 PM
  #20  
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wouldnt a 3.875" crank bored like 40 over be extremely close to a 400? 30 over is a 396....
Old May 12, 2007 | 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by reamo04
wouldnt a 3.875" crank bored like 40 over be extremely close to a 400? 30 over is a 396....
.040 over wouldn't increase it by much, it works out to be 397.39ci

.060 makes it 401.34ci ...but as stated before is not really very safe on an LT1 block without sleeving.

Just so ya know, here's the formula to determine engine displacement...

bore x bore x stroke x number of cylinders x .7854 = displacement

Last edited by Colin91Z; May 12, 2007 at 03:22 PM.
Old May 12, 2007 | 03:31 PM
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Im pretty positive im set on a 4.00 stroke with a .020 or .030 bore.

Rod length and rod brand, pistons and piston brand is a big factor im gathering.
Old May 12, 2007 | 05:02 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by my94blackz
We havent really touched on this yet, Will a heavily modded LTX manifold not work?

IMO, no..... I would not put a stock style intake on a 400+ inch LT1



David
Old May 12, 2007 | 05:58 PM
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This has to be considered as a whole package. You need to do two things before getting specific about the combo: what is your budget and what are your goals. Then see if the two match up. As they usually do not, you can start making compromises once you have a starting point. Otherwise, a discussion like this is a black hole. IOW: what are you trying to build? With that at least answered, a rough dollar figure can be derived and you can decide if that is in the budget or not.

Rich
Old May 12, 2007 | 10:07 PM
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Money is no object but I want the car to have very good street manners. For instance I love how this cam now has good manners. 500 RWHP would be a nice goal, with a gob of tq. The car will be full weight, and have a 6 speed behind it. It will have a/c and p/s. I want to get whatever parts it takes to make the clearence issue as painless as possible, and strong enough to hold a 200 tnt shot. The car needs to be able to run on 93 also.
Old May 12, 2007 | 10:20 PM
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If money is not a concern, ditch the LT1 and install a Gen I aftermarket block based motor. Heck you could pick up a nice 427 longblock and then "just" have to fix up a manifold and throttle body that would fit with whatever hood you decide to use. For engine management, I'd go with an Electromotive TEC3r. Either that, or go with an LSx based motor, but ditch the LT1 if you really have deep pockets. $10-12,000 ought to do it for a top quality Gen I longblock. Figure another $5-6,000 for the induction and engine management and a very civilized 500rwhp+ will be no problem. Then add nitrous to taste.

I know less about the LSx stuff, a little more expensive I imagine?

Rich
Old May 13, 2007 | 01:47 AM
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forged bottom end from VRE - 3600 or so (383/396)
LE3 heads/ blower cam - 2200 i think
procharger setup - 6000ish
rear end - 2500
tranny rebuild - 1500


would make for a very streetable and very fast car
Old May 13, 2007 | 04:57 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by my94blackz
Aight a recap, The brand of crank doesnt matter so I really want to run the Callies Magnum XL, Rods needs to be a oliver billet, Heads a worked AFR 227, and small circle base. Does the cam need to be crazy big or can I run a nice mild HYD roller?
I think there are better heads out there than the AFR 227's for what you are doing. Why stay 23 degree??

If you want a set from AFR it will take 5 times longer than they say before you finnaly get them. And if you get a unported set no reputable head porter will want to work them as AFR puts out alot of bad castings. AFR was the one that told me about the casting problems.

I'd look into the 18 degree Brodix stuff,All-pros or the Dart heads. All would be better than the hassle assioated with AFR and the power would probably be better as well.
Old May 13, 2007 | 07:50 AM
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I want it to stay a LT1, thats he whole point of it. I want to have a unique LT1. I want to keep the LT1 style block and intake. I really dont want to convert SBC heads over BUT if a 23* degree head wont cut it then I guess Ill have to. I also want it to be a nitrous car.
Old May 13, 2007 | 08:16 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by my94blackz
I want it to stay a LT1, thats he whole point of it. I want to have a unique LT1. I want to keep the LT1 style block and intake. I really dont want to convert SBC heads over BUT if a 23* degree head wont cut it then I guess Ill have to. I also want it to be a nitrous car.
Have you searched on this topic? A bunch of people tried doing this stuff along time ago and all of the off the wall combos blew up..........

IMO your wasting your time......If money is no object then get that new LSx block that can go to 511 inches or buy an LS7.......you will make more power and be more streetable than what you want to do and spend less money
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