Hey guys. Trying to narrow down the rotating assembly I am gonna need for my motor, and so far, I like the eagle one that comes with the forged crank, (4340 I think), 6" H-beam rods and JE/SRP pistons (forged). This is for a sbc with a 1 pc rear main seal.

Now my question is, if I want to run the LT1 flywheel, do I have to buy a non-balanced assembly and have it all balanced, OR, as some kits come with "internal balance", will I have to buy a new flywheel? I don't want to spend the money on a flywheel since mine is still in good shape. Thanks a lot guys!!!

Also, if anyone knows, what exactly needs to be cleranced on the block for a 6" rod and 3.75" stroke, and, how much power can a stock block/main caps handle? Thanks guys.

 

TTT, cause I need to know as well

 

the bore ends need to be clerenced the meat so to speak at the end of the bore aftermarket blocks dont even have it. and have it balenced by a shop the assemblys have been coming so crapie it aint funny a street balence is .5 a race balence is .25 grams at krs machining i have seen 10 to 15 grams out when they were susposed to be balenced the most acceptable is 7 grams but we never go that far out

 

IgorT.455/406,

The rotating assembly all depends upon the power you are going to run. Most times I see a guy spend way to much on a forged bottom end just to put to small of heads on it and not make any power.

In the next couple weeks we are going to do another stroker GP so you might want to check that out. For under $1000 you can get a crank, rods and pistons that will hold 600hp easy. No need to spend the $1500 or so you are looking at. That $500 into the heads will go alot farther to making more power.

With the flywheel. You can take your flywheel now, machine off the balancing pad and then neutral balance it and all should be fine. For around $70.

As far as the block goes, the clearancing can be done many ways. usually you can mock up the crank and rods and mark out where it needs to be clearanced. Or some shops have a template. I like to throw the block on a mill, cut the hole rid away to help oil dran back and clearancing and then finish some of the other areas with a grinder.

The main caps with ARP studs are good fro 550hp on a street car. That means around 470rwhp, so don't worry about it unless you have alot of cash.

Bret

 

That does not sound too bad. Well, to be pefectly honest, my x-gf smoked a curb with my '94, so at the moment I got the LT1 and the T56 just sitting there.

Now, I also have a set of Edelbrock Victor Junior sbc heads with 2.08/1.60 valves, a comp solid roller cam of 242/248 duration (at .050) and .570/.577 lift and 112 lsa (with 1.5 rr) cam, endura x-lifteres, victor junior single plane intake and a 750 holley carb, with a 150-250 adjustable shot of spray in a third gen car waiting for a new bottom end, and a Lt1 T56 swapped into it. So I would like a 1-piece rear main seal 4 bolt block (which I have), .030 over with a 3.75" stoke crank the the LT1 flywheel. So I am hoping to see 550ish RWHP on spray, so the main reason why I want the forged stuff!

 

Can you explain more. Are you talking about internally balanced stroker kit. Well it make a difference if it's A4 or M6 transmission.

What about the stock damper and balancer.

 

Basically I want to use my LT1 flywheel, and my LT1 T56 in my '88 car, and since the solid roller I have for that '88 was also cut for the LT1 (with the steped nose), and since I have a 1 pc 4 bolt roller block core, I think I need to run a stroker kit that would work for an LT1 motor (since the bottom end should be the same as regular 1 pc sb). I can use the LT1 balancer, or a new 350 truck balancer. I want to have the assembly balanced anyway, but if it already comes internally balanced, I would imagine bolting on a T56 flywheel (with external balance weight), it would throw the balance right out.

 

Yes that will make it a internally balanced setup. The A4 has a flexplate that has pads on it. I'm not sure but it might be easier to buy a netrual balanced flexplate for that. The flywheel is easy to fix though.

The stock damper and balancer are neutral, not like a 400 balancer that is not, so no need to worry about the the balancer and damper they are o.k.

Bret

 

Okay if the stock damper/balancer has no weight and will work with an internally balanced stroker kit, can anybody tell me if installing the internally balanced stroker kit with my stock A4 flexplate will be of any problem.

Does the stock LT1 A4 flexplate have weight pads.

 

As Bret explained, the stock flexplate/flywheel has a counterbalance weight. This is needed because the stock rotating assy is not fully balanced internally. Most people who do strokers have the rotating assy fully internally balanced. Then a neutral balance flexplate/flywheel may be used.

Rich Krause

 

Will this counter weight create a problem with the internally balanced stroker kit. I noticed that Bret said something about machining the weight off the flywheel.

Is a neutral balance flexplate a must. I know it is like $50 for the flexplate but need to know if I should throw my stock one.

 

If you have an internally balanced rotating assy you must have a neutral balance flywheel to go along with it.

Rich Krause