Hey guys Im wanting to build a 383 but have a few questions . First do I need to get a 400 balancer or will the LT1 balancer work? Also will the stock flexplate work? Will a cc306 cam with 1.6RR work because the car im buying already has that cam? And do I have to clearance the block or will it be ok.

 

You can use the stock balancer because you will probably have to get the rotating assembly balanced....same with the flexplate.

I would just call one of the vendors about the cam in question and running it on a stroker....your heads play are big part in the cam.

Some people have to clearance their 383" setups...I did not. All you can do is mock it up and test.

 

The stock LT1 has a neutral balanced harmonic damper on the front, not a balancer. The stock rotating assembly is balanced externally with a weight on the flywheel or flexplate. Whether you can use a stock flexplate depends on whether your 383 rotating assembly is internally or externally balanced.

Typically, you continue to use a neutral balanced harmonic damper on the front of the engine, whether it is stock or aftermarket.

For clearancing, the rotating asembly is rough assembled and the clearances checked. It isn't unusual to have to clearance the bottoms of the cylinders or the oil pan rails. But what or if you have to do anything will be detemined by the actual parts you choose to use, including the crank and connecting rods.

 

In addition to what Fred said, just to elaborate a bit on the issue of parts choice and clearance: there is a big difference in the shape of the rod big end between different rods. There are also variations between block castings. The latter, you can't control. But I have done a number of strokers with modern 350 blocks and found the following with respect to clearance with different rods.

Obviously, there are many I haven't tried and you will see cheap import stuff conspicuously missing. You are better off with a set of OEM PM rods than the low end imports. Why some people don't understand this escapes me. Anyhoo, the best rods for stroker clearance are the Olivers. The billet is a very high end rod you probably don't need. The forged Oliver rod is also a premium product that comes at a high price but is superb quality. The Lunati "Pro Mod" is a very good forged rod that also has excellent clearance. Crower has an excellent rod that is comparable to the Lunati in quality and is not quite as easy to clearance. The Eagle H-beam is an import but is a decent rod. It is not much less expensive than a mid range domestic rod but is something to consider if your budget is tight and your politics allow you to buy Chinese stuff. These require quite a bit of clearancing compared to the others listed. If you want to spned less than the Eagle's go for, your best bet is a set of stock rods which are really excellent with a set of high quality bolts added. They are fair in terms of the clearancing required.

Rich

 

its a 95 block and Im looking at getting the Eagle external balance crank with Scat Pro Comp I-beam 5.7 forged 4340 rods it says that crank requires a 400 balancer and the stock flexplate on the summit site. I figured I would have to take everthing and get it balanced does anyone have an idea of what that will cost? I can't decide on which pistons Im going to get.

 

Balancing is usally in the $150-300 range. You should consider a longer rod as that will allow use of a lighter piston. If you are getting it balanced, you can use any flexplate and damper you want. But if the crank is designed for an external balance setup, you should get a counterweighted damper and flexplate to make it easier (and therefroe cheaper) to get the whole assembly balanced.

It is often cheaper and easier to buy a balanced rotating assembly "kit".

Rich

 

so if I buy a balanced rotating kit can I still use the LT1 dampner and flexplate also where is the cheapest place to get a balanced kit Im on a pretty tight budget.

 

No, I meant a neutral balance RA, so you would need a neutral balance flexplate. Or, you could take your flexplate alone to a balance shop and they could remover the weight and verify neutral balance. Or do it the ghetto way and carefully drill out the wleds holding the counterweight and hope it's close enough.

You can get a neutral balance flexplate pretty cheap. About $60, I think.

Rich